SERPAS
659 Auburn Ave, #501
404-688-0040
Scott Serpas has long since proven his distinctive culinary vision in the Atlanta market, first working as sous chef under Kevin Rathbun at NAVA, then serving as Executive Chef at Sia’s and Mitra before earning rave reviews for his stylistic flair at TWO urban licks. So it wasn’t so much a question of whether the South Louisiana native would branch out with his own restaurant concept, but when and where.
The answer came last year with the launch of Serpas True Food in Studioplex, situated in the heart of the recently resurgent Old Fourth Ward district. Originally a cotton storage factory, the historic building’s blend of rustic tradition and ultra-modern design is a perfect match for the chef’s inventive menu, which blends Cajun classics with subtle Southwestern and Asian influences.
Start your meal with Fried Oysters: Served with pickled chiles and mirliton (a.k.a. chayote squash), they boast a perfectly piquant flavor that oozes over your taste buds. It’s in making such simple dishes into standouts that Serpas struts his stuff, whether it’s reinventing Pigs ‘n’ Blanket by stuffing them with andouille sausage and smoked mustard or prettying up Tuna Tartar by pairing it with green apples and chile sesame dressing. As for entrees, the Duck Breast with sweet potato puree and parsnips, Jumbo Sea Scallops with spaghetti squash and panang curry, and Beef Shortrib with potato celery gratin were all delightful examples of the keep-it-simple school of culinary thought.
Whatever you do, don’t leave without trying the White Chocolate Cranberry Bread Pudding, which will melt in your mouth with a lusciousness that will leave you begging for seconds, if not thirds. –BRET LOVE
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