GOING DUTCH- A Guide To Curaçao

GOING DUTCH

Exploring The Netherland Antilles Island of Curaçao

by Bret Love

Set in the southern Caribbean just off the coast of Venezuela, Curaçao’s location and status as an island of the Netherlands Antilles lend it a unique cultural makeup combining Afro-Caribbean, European and South American influences. Originally settled by the Spanish (who shipped most of the native Arawak Amerindian population off to other colonies) in 1499, the island began to thrive in the early 1600s, when the Dutch West India Company founded the capitol city of Willemstad on a natural harbor that made it a hotspot for commerce and shipping. The area’s resulting affluence led to the construction of historic buildings blending Dutch and Spanish colonial styles, which ultimately earned Willemstad a place on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites. The island changed hands numerous times between the British, French and Dutch during the 18^th and 19^th centuries before stable Dutch rule was established in 1815, while Venezuelan influence has been relatively constant. As a result, English, Dutch, Papiamentu (Portuguese Creole) and Spanish are all widely spoken. Despite its tiny size (171 square miles), the island boasts one of the highest standards of living in the Caribbean and offers plenty for visitors to see and do.

 

 

ATTRACTIONS

 

A nation that thrives on diversity, Curaçao appeals equally to city folk and nature-lovers alike. For the former there’s the bustling activity of Willemstad, where a historical walking tour can take you from 17^th century Fort Amsterdam and Fort Nassau to the Mikve Israel Emmanuel Synagogue (the oldest synagogue in continuous use in the western hemisphere), from the Queen Emma and Queen Juliana Bridges to Museum Kura Hulanda (which examines the Trans-Atlantic slave trade and its impact on Curaçaoan culture). For the latter there’s Hato Caves, which is full of stalactites, stalagmites and Arawak petroglyphs estimated to be 1,500 years old; Christoffel National Park, a wildlife preserve which contains the island’s highest point (Mount Christoffel) and attracts hikers, mountain bikers and horseback riders; and Curaçao Sea Aquarium, which features various exhibits, performances and Animal Encounters, wherein snorkelers and scuba divers can swim with and hand-feed a variety of sharks, stingrays, turtles and tropical fish. Their ever-popular Dolphin Academy is one of only three facilities in the entire world that allows visitors an opportunity to snorkel or dive with our fine-flippered friends in the open water, petting, playing with and riding on Bottlenose dolphins for a once-in-a-lifetime underwater experience.

 

 

DINING & NIGHTLIFE

 

With over 50 different cultures represented on the island, Curaçao’s cuisine is perhaps predictably eclectic, combining a broad variety of European, West Indian and East Asian (particularly Indonesian, another of the Netherlands’ former colonies) culinary influences. Dutch staples such as bread, cheeses and seafood are common elements, while more adventurous diners may want to try exotic options such as yuana (stewed iguana, which tastes a lot like chicken) and kabritu (stewed goat). Other popular Curaçaoan dishes include erwten soep, a thick pea soup full of pork, ham and sausage; nasi goreng, bean sprouts sautéed with chunks of beef and chicken; kónkómber, cucumbers combined with green papaya or cabbage, then stewed with corned beef; fried plaintains; and kokada, freshly grated coconut patties held together with simple syrup and tinted with food coloring for a festive look. After dinner, visitors flock to local casinos such as the Curacao Marriott Beach Resort & Emerald Casino and Renaissance Curacao Resort & Casino, where they can try their hands at blackjack, poker, slots and numerous other games of chance in hopes of making a little extra vacation cash, or hang out in the popular lounges while sipping on their favorite cocktails.

 

 

SHOPPING

 

As you might expect from a port of trade with 400 years of history, Curaçao is legendary for its shopping opportunities, which run the gamut from upscale items sold in centuries-old buildings to quaint outdoor markets full of colorful local flavor. Punda is the main shopping area of Willemstad, where pedestrian-only streets are filled with picturesque sights and shops offering everything from English china and Italian leather to Japanese electronics and Indonesian batik clothing. Renaissance Mall features every world brand boutique a serious shopper could seek, from BCBG and Tommy Hilfiger to Breitling and Tiffany’s, while the harbor’s Duty Free zone is the largest in the Caribbean. The Floating Market is a wondrous sight to behold, with Venezuelan merchants hawking their wares from tiny fishing boats, while the Old Market (a.k.a. Marche Bieuw) offers authentic tastes of exotic cuisines at affordable prices. Don’t forget to pick up some of the island’s famous Curaçao liqueur, which is known for its trademark blue color and has been produced at Mansion Chobolobo since 1896. It’s perfect for sipping while dancing the night away to the Curaçaoan sounds of the Antillean waltz, the infectious African rhythms of tumba, or the melancholy blues called tambu.

 

SPORTS & BEACHES

 

Baseball is the #1 spectator sport in Curaçao, and the tiny island has produced more than its fair share of major league talent, including All-Star outfielder Andruw Jones and pitchers Shairon Martis and Jair Jurrjens. That talent pool seems likely to grow even bigger with time, as Willemstad’s little league team has made it all the way to the Little League World Series eight years in a row. The island’s most popular recreational activities involve the beautiful aquamarine waters that surround it. Curaçao is consistently ranked among the best places in the world for snorkeling and scuba diving, with sites such as Curaçao Underwater Park offering warm waters, remarkably visibility, spectacular scenery and a bevy of colorful creatures with which to interact. Though it’s not as common as on nearby Aruba, the prevailing trade winds are making Curaçao a hotspot for windsurfing as well. Intimate white sand beaches such as Cas Abao, Westpunt and Jan Thiel offer some of the island’s best recreational activities, with serene vistas, excellent reef systems just offshore, and excellent amenities. But in many cases you won’t even need to leave the comforts of your hotel to enjoy the best Curaçao’s water sports have to offer.

 (originally appeared in Destination Marriott)

BUILDING BRIDGES- My Interview w/Ludacris

BUILDING BRIDGES- LUDACRIS ON STAYING HUMBLE AND HUNGRY

By Bret Love

 

The man born Chris Bridges 30 years ago in Champaign, Illinois, initially made a name for himself as a DJ on Atlanta hip-hop radio station Hot 97.5 during the dawn of the Dirty South scene’s rise (when he was better known as DJ Chris Lova Lova). Eventually, of course, he left radio and changed his name to Ludacris, ultimately becoming one of hip-hop’s hottest MCs by signing to Def Jam South and releasing a string of hits that included #1 singles “Stand Up” and “Money Maker” and Top 10 smashes such as “Move Bitch,” “Splash Waterfalls” and “Pimpin’ All Over the World.” Though he may not be an original ATLien, Ludacris quickly established himself as one of the South’s most commercially successful rappers and in-demand guest artists.

 

But mere success as an artist wasn’t enough. Teaming up with associate Chaka Zulu, Ludacris formed his own boutique label at Def Jam, Disturbing Tha Peace, and released albums by a diverse roster of artists that included Field Mob, Playaz Circle and Bobby Valentino. After making his feature film debut in 2 Fast 2 Furious, he dedicated himself to learning the acting craft and subsequently earned standout roles in Oscar-caliber films such as Hustle & Flow and Crash. Perhaps more importantly, he started his own charity foundation, helping underprivileged kids by teaching them principles of success, sponsoring Christmas toy drives and giving away more than 500 turkey dinners over the holidays.

 

We recently spoke with the always-opinionated rapper about Atlanta’s thriving urban music scene, working with director Guy Ritchie (a.k.a. Mr. Madonna) and how he’s managed to stay relevant in the here-today-gone-tomorrow world of hip-hop for over a decade.

 

 

 

You were a DJ on Atlanta radio back in the ‘90s when the Dirty South hip-hop explosion first happened. What are some of your favorite memories of the scene during that time?

 

I just remember when Rowdy Records, So So Def and LaFace Records were all real prominent in the industry, and they were all located in Atlanta. Dallas Austin had Rowdy Records, and he was working with Monica and Kris Kross and all that; you had everybody on So So Def; then on LaFace you had upstarts like Usher, Toni Braxton and TLC; and then of course you had Goodie Mob and Outkast. To me, that’s really where it all began as far as Atlanta being considered the Motown of the South.

 

How do you think the urban music scene here today compares with places like New York City and Los Angeles?

 

Today I think it’s pretty evident that the South is the driving force of hip-hop, as far as presence and sales are concerned. I think every region has its time, and right now the South is dominant. I feel like there’s a lot of talent here, and a lot of great examples to provide motivation. That’s one of the reasons I got on my grind, because I saw so much going on here that I felt like there was no way it couldn’t happen for me with all the resources that were available to me here in the South.

 

As someone who’s been in the hip-hop game for over a decade now, how do you feel about the ways that the music and the industry have changed over the last 10 years?

 

I feel like things are always gonna change over time; you just have to adjust yourself to the changing environment of music. So basically I feel great about it, and look forward to the future. I look forward to more technology, because seeing it firsthand and experiencing change while it’s happening is one of the greatest virtues of life, in my opinion. You become your own worst enemy when you try to stay stuck in one point in time.

 

A lot of people criticize hip-hop radio for dumbing down the format. Do you feel that it’s gotten harder for innovative artists to break through?

 

No, I don’t think it’s harder for creative people to break through. First of all, history always repeats itself, and it’s all about people’s OPINIONS of what being creative really is. With that being said, there are different kinds of music and different kinds of hip-hop, whether it be the dance-friendly kind of the Soulja Boys or the [more conscious artists like] Kanye West. People have different opinions of what hip-hop really is, so people can choose what they wanna listen to.

Are there any particular artists on today’s scene whose sound you’re really feeling?

 

Man, I’m really a fan of Lil’ Wayne right now. I really think that he’d doing his thing as far as his talent and his flow.

 

A lot of rappers have obviously tried the acting gig at some point in their career, but you’ve had better luck than most. What’s the secret to successfully crossing over from hip-hop to Hollywood?

 

(Laughs) There is no real secret, man. At the end of the day, you either have the talent or you don’t, and you either take it seriously or you don’t. Those two things combined determine your success. A lot of rappers—a lot of entertainers, period—are given the opportunity to act just because of our popularity and who we are, so the difference between breaking through or not breaking through is how serious we take it. Studying the craft, working on your role, being humble and not thinking you know everything, and coming into it as a student, all of that has a lot to do with it.

 

Where does acting stand in relation to music on your career priority list?

 

Music is always my No. 1 love. But I find it challenging. Put it this way: whenever I focus on something, I like to concentrate my energy 100% on it. When I was in movie mode, I was not in music mode at all. I don’t want to get stereotyped as just another rapper-actor. I try to take it seriously, and I always feel I can get better. Right now, I’m back to music mode. But [acting] is definitely something I’d like to continue to do in the future.

 

I rode you drove your 1993 Acura for a long time because it helped keep you grounded. How hard is it to hold onto the essence of who you are when you’re surrounded by all the various trappings of fame?

 

(Laughs) I’m driving my 1993 Acura Legend as we speak! It does keep my grounded, man. Nobody really expects me to be driving this, but it’s just the memory of who I was and where I was when all of this began that’s most important to me. I don’t really let a lot of this fame get to my head. I have to stay grounded and remain who I am, and [the car] is just one of those reminders that takes me back to the grind.

 

But doesn’t that ideal go against the materialistic nature of what a lot of today’s hip-hop is about– getting the yacht, the Bentley and all that?

 

I have all of that stuff, too! (Laughs) But I stay true to who I am by setting goals for myself and constantly striving to achieve them.

 

Are you disappointed with any aspect of your life?

 

I’m just disappointed over the privacy issue sometimes. I’m recognized ALL of the time, so I can’t just do and go wherever the hell I want to by myself. I can, but there’s always an issue with it.  Autographs and shit like that. That’s great, ‘cuz it comes with the territory. But sometimes you just wanna shop or not be bothered. That’s the only thing.

 

Are there any particular hip-hop icons that you look up to and have tried to model your career after?

 

Russell Simmons is the man who laid the blueprint for anyone else I would probably name. I really look up to him. His business sense, how humble he is, and his desire to give back and acknowledge his responsibility here on Earth is extremely impressive.

 

That brings me right to my next question. Your charity organization, The Ludacris Foundation, does a lot of good work in the metro Atlanta area around the holidays.

 

Absolutely! We just gave away turkeys to over 500 families in need over the Thanksgiving holidays, including organizations that help out battered women, senior citizens and underprivileged kids. This is something we do every year, and for Christmas we did a toy drive and gave those to underprivileged families as well. But we’re constantly doing different things in the community.

 

Is there a central mission behind the foundation?

 

To help kids and families help themselves.

 

In one of your press releases, you talk about teaching kids the principles of success. What are the primary principles you hope kids will learn from you?

 

(Laughs) Well, the ones that are written down specifically I don’t have in my hands right now. But to put it in my own words, success is about being yourself, self-education and self-motivation. If we don’t do those things for ourselves, nobody else is gonna do it for us.

 

Why do you think the mainstream media tends to focus on the negative aspects of hip-hop artists’ lives, but doesn’t give much ink to the good things people like you and Russell Simmons are doing through your charity foundations?

 

You know, they try to paint us as bad individuals, and that’s a whole separate conversation. I could go on and on about that. But I feel like people try and put the blame on rap music for the simple fact that we definitely have a lot of influence over a lot of people. That being said, it’s all about negativity. But I don’t attribute violence to hip-hop; I attribute violence to ignorance. I don’t wanna stereotype and say that everybody does it, because there are certain publications that do focus on the positive things that are going on. But for the majority, you’re right.

 

How would you say your music has evolved as you’ve gotten older and more mature?

 

With every album I’m always escalating and taking it another direction. I’m perfecting my craft, becoming better. As you get older, you change as a person. But of course you’ll always hear the same Ludacris that most of the core audience loves. Then it’s always about taking things to the next level and doing things that people wouldn’t normally expect me to do.

 

After more than 10 years in the business, what would you say are the secrets to career longevity?

 

Staying consistent and staying grounded. It’s just that simple.

 

 (originally appeared in Georgia Music Magazine)

 

 

ATTENTIONS COMEDIANS- $1000 Amateur Comedy Contest!!!

Screen Gems is hosting a DEATH AT A FUNERAL Amateur Comedy Contest on Thursday, April 8 @ 8:00 PM at Uptown Comedy Corner.  Starting next week, the comedians will have to upload their 3 minute routines onto the V-103 website.  V-103 will pick 20 comedians to compete in the DEATH AT A FUNERAL Amateur Comedy Contest on Thursday, April 8 at Uptown Comedy Corner.  The winning comedian will receive $1,000, a chance to perform their winning routine at the DEATH AT A FUNERAL promotional screening on April 14 and VIP passes to the DEATH AT A FUNERAL promotional screening (includes reserved seating and free popcorn and coke for the winner and 4 of their guests). Stay tuned for more details!

THE WHIGS- In The Dark Review

THE WHIGS

In The Dark

ATO

 

The Whigs have been on a slow, steady climb towards national stardom for four years now, ever since Rolling Stone named the Athens-based band one of “10 Artists To Watch” in the wake of their independently released 2005 debut, Give ‘Em All A Big Fat Lip. Within a year they had been signed to Dave Matthews’ ATO label, and by 2008’s Mission Control the band had become more confident in their blend of classic garage rock and more modern alt-rock influences.

 

After replacing original bassist Hank Sullivant (who joined MGMT) with Tim Deaux, the band embarked on a series of memorable late night talk show performances and high-profile tours. Returning home a much tighter trio, the group began writing and recording their third album in Athens with producer Ben Allen (Animal Collective). The result, In The Dark, represents another big step forward in The Whigs’ artistic evolution.

 

The first difference you’ll notice is an increased focus on the rhythm section of Deaux and Julian Dorio. According to frontman Parker Gispert, nine of these 11 songs began as drum and bass grooves, with Gispert’s guitar and vocal melodies woven in around them. The result is a tighter, more propulsive sound, with the opening “Hundred/Million” rollicking along for 54 seconds before the first guitar riff comes crashing in like a tidal wave and takes the track to a whole ‘nother level. When the guitar stands front and center on a song like “Kill Me Carolyne,” it recalls the Replacements and R.E.M., establishing The Whigs as heirs to that college-rock throne.

 

In The Dark is not a perfect album, but it is a very good one, suggesting the band may soon be headlining the same big venues where they supported Kings of Leon and Drive-By Truckers not too long ago. –BRET LOVE

(originally appeared in Georgia Music Magazine)

The World.. This Weekend

Our Top 5 roundup of things to do in and around the ATL this weekend:

 

* ART

 

The Allure Of The Automobile

The High Museum of Art, 280 Peachtree Street

404-733-HIGH

www.high.org

 

More than 100 Peachstate Porsche Club America members and Porsche fans will drive their vintage and modern Porsches down Peachtree Street from the Governor’s Mansion to the High Museum of Art in celebration of Porsche Cars’ 60^TH Anniversary of being sold in the United States, and to commemorate the opening day of the museum’s new exhibit, “The Allure of the Automobile.” The exhibit will feature 18 of the rarest automobiles from the 1930s to the mid-1960s, including the 1938/39 Porsche Type 64 and the 1953 Porsche 550 Le Mans/La Carrera Panamericana Hardtop Coupe.

 

 

* FOOD

 

Aria

490 East Paces Ferry Road

404-233-7673

www.aria-atl.com

 

Now celebrating its 10^th anniversary, this perennial fine dining favorite recently received a rare 5-star review from the AJC, and was named one of the Top 3 out of 737 restaurants in Atlanta (Bacchanalia and Qionones Room at Bacchanalia were #1 and 2). Owner/Chef Gerry Klaskala continues to succeed in an economy-addled market thanks to his creativity and sense of culinary expression, best exemplified by signature dishes such as the Warm Lobster Cocktail, the Niman Ranch Slow Roasted Pork and the Zinfandel Braised Beef Short Rib. Pastry chef Kathryn King’s killer concoctions don’t hurt, either!

 

 

* MUSIC

 

Zakir Hussain & the Masters of Percussion

Rialto Center for the Arts, 80 Forsyth St NW

404-413-9849

www.rialtocenter.org

 

Indian music has fascinated me ever since I first heard it back in college, and the more I learn about it the more its myriad complexities intrigue me. Most musicians of the Indian Classical music tradition begin studying at a very early age, often practicing over 12 hours a day on their instruments. The tabla– usually two drums placed side by side, with metal dots in the center of the head to provide the trademark ringing sound– is one of the world’s most intricate percussion instruments: Students must master 64 different sounds, each with its own name and technique that must be perfected in order to be considered a “master.” Zakir Hussain is perhaps the greatest table virtuoso ever, and to watch his fingers flying across the drums is dazzling syncopated flights is as transcendent as any musical experience I’ve ever had. Here he’ll be accompanied by Taufiq Qureshi, Ganesh and Kumaresh, Sabir Khan, Navin Sharma, Sridar Parthasarathy and the Motilal Dhakis of Bengal. Definitely a must-see for percussion fans and Indian music lovers.

 

 

* PARTY

 

LiviRae Lingerie Bachelorette Party

Tongue & Groove, 565 Main St, Lindbergh City Center

404-261-2325

www.liviraelingerie.com

 

Mary hasn’t stopped raving about this independent lingerie shop in Kennesaw (started by former employees of Intimacy) since a friend first referred her to them a few months ago. Their upscale bras, panties and lingerie manage to be both incredibly sexy and very classy, with in-house alterations and hands-on custom fitting services. Tonight’s party is for the ladies only, with music, cocktails, select vendors and a lingerie fashion show that would surely get the fellas’ blood boiling, if only they were allowed in the door. Luckily for me, I have a press pass…  ;-)

 

 

* THEATER

 

Clash, Titan, Clash!

Dad's Garage Theatre 

280 Elizabeth St, Suite C-101 

404-523-3141 

www.dadsgarage.com  

 

Coming from the brilliantly bawdy minds of Lucky Yates (Archer) and Center For Puppetry Arts puppet-maker Jason Hines (whose hilarious Avanti Da Vinci remains one of my favorite ATL theatrical productions ever), this World Premiere play skewers Greek mythology as only Dad’s Garage can. Like a funnier, more pop culture-savvy Clash Of The Titans, the show tells the story of the hero Perseus, the son of Zeus and Danae, who killed Medusa and rescued Andromeda on the way to fulfilling the prophecy of slaying his grandfather, King Acrisius of Argos. But here the story in an excuse for partly improvised shenanigans and silliness, with Zeus played by Scott Warren like a roid-raging WWE announcer and many of the characters played by action figure-sized puppets projected on a big screen. It’s all in good, irreverent fun, continuing the theater’s 2010 run of original in-house creations.

DRIVE-BY TRUCKERS- The Big To-Do Review

DRIVE-BY TRUCKERS

The Big To-Do

ATO

Twelve years after the release of their debut album and nine years after the conceptual genius of Southern Rock Opera established them as the 21^st century’s Lynyrd Skynyrd, the Drive-By Truckers are more prolific than ever. In the last two years they’ve released a studio album, a live album and a B-sides compilation, collaborated with Booker T Jones and Neil Young on the Grammy-winning Potato Hole, and recorded frontman Patterson Hood’s solo album, Murdering Oscar.

 

With so much recorded output, the band’s trademark Southern-style storytelling and 3-guitar attack has long since been established as a bona fide brand. So the only question at this point is whether or not you’re buying into their twangy country-rock sound. For fans, The Big To-Do will likely come across as the band’s most rocking album since Southern Rock Opera.

 

Hard-driving songs such as the opening “Daddy Learned To Fly” and “The Fourth Night of My Drinking” are classic DBT, but the stripped-down grooves of the slyly humorous “Drag The Lake Charlie” and the off-kilter “The Wig He Made Her Wear” are as warped and colorful as the distinctively Southern stories they tell. Bassist Shonna Tucker continues to cut her compositional teeth, contributing two of the album’s 13 tracks. The piano-driven balladry of her “You Got Another” borders on breathtaking, while Jay Gonzalez’s organs and John Neff’s haunting pedal steel give the closing “Eyes Like Glue” a high lonesome appeal.

 

The increased contributions of the other members not only takes some of the pressure off Hood and Mike Cooley’s shoulders, it allows the band’s sound to expand in an organic way. Ten albums into their career, the Drive-By Truckers remain one of rock’s most consistent bands, and The Big To-Do is another strong feather in their creative cap. –BRET LOVE

(originally appeared in Georgia Music Magazine)

SHE'S OUT OF MY LEAGUE- Movie Review

SHE’S OUT OF MY LEAGUE- Expectations can be a bitch. Going into a film with high expectations can lead to disappointment and, in the worst cases, feelings that you’ve wasted two hours of your life. Going into relationships with expectations set too high? Well, that’s simply a recipe for disaster. 

She’s Out Of My League– much like its central character, Kirk, a nerdy airport security agent pining for an abusive ex-girlfriend who still hangs out with his abusive family– benefits greatly from lowered expectations. It’s got a no-name director (Jim Field Smith), a star (Jay Baruchel) who would barely qualify for the Hollywood C-list, and about as much hype as a new Starbucks. But in the end it delivers both laughs and emotion, balancing absurdist comedy and genuine drama with a deft, nimble touch. 

The story follows Kirk’s budding relationship with Molly (Alice Kim), the upscale event planner referenced in the title. Nobody can believe these two opposites belong together, least of all Kirk, and the film derives huge laughs from watching their disparate worlds collide.  But as crazy as Kirk’s friends and family are, Baruchel and Kim keep the film grounded by playing the emotions of their love for real, even when the circumstances surrounding them border on ridiculous. 

In the end, this heartwarming coming-of-age comedy about nice guys finishing first plays like a Judd Apatow film without Judd Apatow… or big stars… or hype. And yes, that is a VERY good thing. (B) –Bret Love

(originally appeared in INsite)

ALICE IN WONDERLAND- Win A New Era Cap!

To promote the release of Disney's new film adaptation starring Johnny Depp, New Era has designed and manufactured five ALICE IN WONDERLAND caps. 

Each of the five caps commemorates a significant character in the film. New Era sent us over two of their designs: the All Over cap (white 59Fifty style cap with a 360 degree sketched portrait of the main characters) and the Cheshire Cat cap (black 59Fifty style cap with the Cheshire Cat's grinning expression on the front). Each cap has a SRP of $35, and has lots of cool detailing to boot.

We're giving away a handful of these beauties to the first readers who refer 5 new fans to the blog in the next two weeks. Once your friends join, please post a comment letting us know and we will be in touch with you regarding shipping info. Thanks for reading, and for helping to spread the word!

HAWAII: Little Island, Big Fun

LITTLE ISLAND, BIG FUN

WHY HAWAI'I'S "BIG ISLAND" MORE THAN LIVES UP TO ITS NAME

by Bret Love

 

With a total area of 4,028 square miles– less than one-tenth the size of Georgia (59,424 square miles)– the island of Hawaii's nickname, "The Big Island," would appear to be something of a misnomer. After all, you can drive around the island's circumference from the rainy east coast city of Hilo to its sunny west coast counterpart, Kailua-Kona, in less than two hours. But what the Big Island lacks in geographical size it more than makes up for in ecological diversity, boasting 11 different ecosystems that includes the snow-capped summit of the tallest mountain in the world, an arid desert, humid tropical jungles, postcard-worthy beaches, and the world's most active volcano.

 

We began our Hawaiian adventure in the tiny hillside town of Holualoa. Though it's just a short drive from the hustle and bustle of Kailua-Kona, our stay at the quaint Holualoa Inn (www.holualoainn.com) felt far removed from the trappings of civilization. We actually had to slow our rental car to avoid hitting a wild boar crossing the road, and our pastoral stroll through the B&B's well-tended tropical gardens and coffee farm was interrupted only by various birds and mongooses in search of their morning meal. Yet its location made Holualoa Inn a perfectly tranquil base from which to explore the nearby coast.

 

Our trip got off to a rousing start when we embarked upon Captain Zodiac's Raft, Snorkel & Dolphin Adventure (www.captainzodiac.com). Leaving from Kona's Honokohau Marina, the 4-hour trek takes visitors to Kealakekua Bay, the site where Captain Cook landed upon first discovering Hawai'i (and also the site upon which he was later killed during a dispute with the natives). But the excitement began long before we even got there, with the sightings of a breaching humpback whale with young calf in tow and a massive school of hammerhead sharks swimming in search of sustenance. The bay seemed tame by comparison, with its natural harbor providing a buffer from the Big Island's pounding surf and allowing amazing opportunities to snorkel with Honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles) and a cornucopia of tropical fish.

 

On the way back we stopped at Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park (www.nps.gov/archive/puho/home.htm), a place of refuge where, until the early 19th century, Hawaiians who broke one of the ancient laws against the gods, defeated warriors and non-combatants alike could come to find safe haven. The 420-acre complex of archaeological sites was once home to several generations of powerful chiefs, and now includes temple platforms, royal fish ponds, coastal village sites and a reconstructed version of the original sacred temple.

 

The second leg of our trip found us cutting across the island to visit Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park (www.nps.gov/havo), which was designated an International Biosphere Reserve in 1980 and a World Heritage Site in 1987. The park, which encompasses both the world's most massive volcano (Mauna Loa) and its most active (Kilauea, which has been erupting continuously since 1983), had changed considerably since my previous visit in 2006. Then, my team visited the Halema'uma'u crater, traditionally considered the sacred home of the volcano goddess Pele, where we left an offering only to be blessed with a rare double rainbow as rain pelted us from the rear and sun warmed us from the front. But in 2008 a volcanic explosion damaged the overlook on which we'd once stood and covered part of Crater Rim drive, hinting that perhaps Pele had had enough visitors for the time being. Still, we had a great time hiking through the Thurston Lava Tube, learning about the park at the Visitor Center, and browsing for traditional and modern art gallery at the Volcano Art Center (www.volcanoartcenter.org).

 

Drenched by a torrential downpour, we eagerly made our way to the Kapoho coast, where sun-soaked sanctuary awaited in the form of our residence for the next two days, Shangri-La (www.paradisedarling.com). An amazing rental property featuring four Bali-style cottages, an outdoor shower and hot tub, and a private lagoon surrounded by palm trees and stocked with thousands of fish, Shangri-La is the sort of heavenly haven that will leave you canceling plans just so you can immerse yourself in its serene splendor for a few more hours.

 

Unfortunately, duty called, so the next morning we set out for a sunrise boat tour with Lava Ocean Adventures (www.lavaocean.com). Launching before the sun had crested the horizon– when wind, weather and swell conditions are at their best– we set off down the Kalapana coastline towards a massive plume of billowing smoke. There, radiating intense heat, we found the spot where glowing streams of fiery magma flow from Kilauea all the way to the Pacific, creating a black beach of lava that has gradually expanded the Big Island's land mass by over 500 acres in the last 25 years.

 

Returning to Shangri-La after a stomach-churning boat ride that left us delighted to be back on terra firma, we were sad to bid a final farewell to Kapoho, but excited to head north to the island's Kohala coast to close out our Hawaiian holiday with a visit to the 32-acre Fairmont Orchid (www.fairmont.com/orchid). This 5-star resort offers something for everyone: Luxury lovers can play golf, savor impeccable cuisine and indulge in a relaxing treatment at the Spa WIthout Walls (all of which are administered in either a tropical garden surrounded by waterfalls or private beach-side tents); adventurous types can paddle an outrigger canoe to watch whales and dolphins on the move or hike through the largest field of petroglyphs in the Pacific; and families can snorkel with Honu in their white sand lagoon or learn about Polynesian history in the Gathering of the Kings cultural show and luau. Naturally, we partook in all of the above.

 

For our last day on the Big Island, we decided to ascend to Hawaii's highest peak with the guides from Mauna Kea Summit Adventures (www.maunakea.com). This awe-inspiring 8-hour excursion takes you slowly up the world's tallest mountain, which measures 33,476 feet above its base on the floor of the Pacific Ocean. After stopping briefly at the visitor center to eat dinner and get acclimated, buses make the bumpy ride up Saddle Road to the snow-crested peak at 13,796 feet. Here, above 40% of Earth's atmosphere and 90% of the water vapor, surrounded by many of the world's leading astronomical observatories, we watched the sunset from above the clouds, wearing parkas and snuggling together for added warmth. Afterwards, we descended to an area near the visitor center, where impeccable views of the night sky made for an exceptional stargazing experience to end our amazing week in Hawaii.

 

By the end of the week, after driving nearly 500 miles and taking a half-dozen tours (including exploring the island's massive volcanic craters and lava fields from the air with Blue Hawaii Helicopters), our minds were swimming with a cornucopia of vivid memories, from the fresh tropical fruits we'd been served for breakfast our first morning at Holualoa Inn to the excellent couples massage we received at the Fairmont Orchid just before leaving for the airport. But even after three visits in the past four years, I'm fairly certain I've yet to experience the majority of the wonders Hawaii's Big Island has to offer.

 

Then again, there's always next year...

(originally appeared in INsite Magazine)