Craft
3376 Peachtree Rd
404-995-7580
Atlanta has attracted more than its fair share of celeb chefs, with everyone from Emeril and Wolgang Puck to Jean-Georges Vongerichten swooping in to set up shop. NYC’s Tom Colicchio is the latest to bring his culinary concoctions to the ATL, with Craft earning glowing reviews from critics and foodies alike.
It’s easy to see why people are buzzing: From the moment you walk in the doors of the dramatic two-story building, it’s clear that Craft is dressed to impress. From the wood-fired copper and steel grill and the bar made from solid walnut to the blackened steel and glass wine vault and hand-blown Tesla light bulbs, the restaurant reeks of sophistication. Yet the pervasive earth tones simultaneously give it a warm, relaxed atmosphere, with the attentive (yet unobtrusive) waitstaff timing every table visit perfectly.
In an era when too many chefs emphasize style over substance, Colicchio’s focus on fresh ingredients served without heavy sauces or overly fussy presentation is deceptively simple. We started with a sampling of delectable oysters, savoring the differences in flavor, before devouring an appetizer of hamachi (a.k.a. yellowtail) and pineapple in which the sweet tartness of the fruit provided a perfect complement to the subtlety of the fish. Choosing among chef de cuisine Kevin Maxey’s entrees proved difficult, but we ultimately settled on seared Diver Scallops served with a Mushroom Jus, Muscovy Duck Breast & Leg Confit that practically melts in your mouth and, my favorite, braised Beef Short Ribs served with Root Vegetables.
By the time we’d finished our dessert (Milk Chocolate Tart with Espresso-Cardamom Ice Cream), we were stuffed to the point of bursting, swearing to ourselves we’d return soon to sample more of Colicchio’s menu, which proves chefs don’t need a lot of flash if they’ve perfected their… um… Craft. – BRET LOVE
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