Tuesday, February 2, 2010

CASUALLY COOL- Roswell's Oak Street Cafe












OAK STREET CAFÉ

45 Oak St, Roswell

770-594-1300

www.oakstcafe.com

 

Restaurants with the word “café” in their name tend to lead to lowered expectations, which may partially explain why this quaint eatery in historic Roswell has emerged as such a popular brunch/lunch spot. Located in the SOCA shopping center next to a chic interior design shop and art gallery, the café attracts an upscale mix of ladies who lunch and city employees drawn by the quick service and excellent casual gourmet menu.

 

Don’t let the counter service and moderate prices (most of their lunch selections are around $8) fool you: Here, even simple dishes such as butternut squash soup are subtle revelations, balancing the sweet and savory with a culinary expert’s flair. Sandwiches such as the Lafayette (grilled chicken breast with thick-cut bacon, Emmenthaler cheese, grilled onion, lettuce and smoky mayo on a toasted baguette) and the Crab Cake (roasted red peppers, arugula and smoky mayo on a challah bun) offer an explosion of flavor, while their 9-ounce Oak Burger has become the stuff of local legend.

 

As good as the lunches are, Oak Street Café really shines at night, when the warm décor (including art from the gallery next door), flattering lighting and mellow music establish a mood that makes it feel like you’ve stumbled into an intimate foodie hideaway. Entrees such as the short rib ravioli in tomato sauce topped with grana padano, “Chicken Cacciatore” risotto, and “Mac & Cheese” (which, consisting of creamy radiatore with fontina, cheddar, pecorino gran cru and bacon, is like NOTHING Kraft ever imagined) put a unique spin on homestyle cooking, while their full bar practically begs you to linger long enough to sample their scrumptious desserts. Best of all, the lack of a crowd allows you to do just that. – BRET LOVE


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