OLD WORLD OTP- Vingenzo's Pasta & Pizzeria Review

Vingenzo’s Pasta & Pizzeria

105 East Main St, Woodstock

770-924-9133

www.vingenzos.com

 

Ask anyone who lives outside the perimeter and they’ll tell you that finding a great new culinary haven in the land of strip malls and chain restaurants is like the Holy Grail for foodies. So it was with much anticipation that we visited this charming little restaurant in downtown Woodstock on the strength of a friend’s recommendation, and with great pleasure that we discovered it was every bit as good as we’d been told.

 

Co-owned by Chef Michael Bologna (who teaches aspiring chefs at a local college by day), Vingenzo’s is the New York native’s tribute to the sort of old-world Neapolitan cuisine he grew up on, featuring recipes handed down through generations. The atmosphere is a welcoming blend of classy and casual, appealing to romantic couples and feasting families alike. Bologna prides himself on making everything from scratch, from three different kinds of mozzarella to pizza dough and pasta, and uses locally grown ingredients whenever possible (including heirloom tomatoes, which were delivered by a farmer as we dined).

 

Vingenzo’s menu may not seem exciting on the surface; anyone who’s ever had Italian food will recognize traditional dishes such as Margharita pizza and Frutti Di Mare. But what separates Bologna’s food from other Italian restaurants is his dedication to freshness and craftsmanship. Pizzas such as the Sopressata and the Bianca Con Prosciutto e Fontina, baked according to Neapolitan tradition in a wood-burning oven at 900º, offer a robust commingling of textures and flavors. Pastas such as Gnocchi al Gorgonzola and Campagnola offer a perfect balance of ingredients, from the spinach and Gorgonzola of the former to the artichoke hearts, cherry tomatoes and mushrooms of the latter. His desserts, including Pistachio gelato and Torta di Ricotta (ricotta cheesecake), are equally impressive.

 

In short, Vingenzo’s is the sort of surprising discovery that makes being a food critic so rewarding. Not only do I get to share a rare gem of a restaurant, but now I also have a local favorite for my own family. –BRET LOVE

SUBURBAN SWANK- Hi Life Kitchen & Cocktails Review

HI LIFE KITCHEN & COCKTAILS

3380 Holcomb Bridge Rd, Norcross

770-409-0101

www.hiliferestaurant.com

 

Once a shining beacon on the Gwinnett restaurant scene, Hi Life had seen a gradual decline in quality in recent years as its original owners– the proprietors behind the wildly successful Marlowe’s Tavern– focused on other ventures. Now, under the leadership of owner/Executive Chef Gregg Zeringue, the upscale restaurant has re-emerged as a haven for OTP foodies.

 

Don’t let its strip shopping center location fool you: Beyond the neon sign and chain restaurant canopies, you’ll find a warm, romantic interior. Cobalt blue lamps hang over cozy booths and polished wood accents, while mellow music (live jazz some weekends) ensures that the buzzing bar area rarely rises to a cacophonous din.

 

Zeringue’s menu puts an emphasis on New American cuisine with a dash of creative fusion. Appetizer standbys such as calamari are reinvented with the addition of a sweet chili glaze, while tandoori beef satays with cucumber crème fraiche and truffled tuna tempura with curry yogurt sauce add a bit of exotic spice. Every entrée we tried– from sesame seabass with jasmine rice to seared jumbo scallops with wasabi whipped potatoes, from fontini ravioli with lobster and asparagus to truffle honey glazed rack of lamb with roast fingerling potato- was exceptional. 

With an expansive wine list, full bar, and desserts and specials that change daily, Gregg Zeringue and company have finally restored Hi Life to its former glory. –BRET LOVE  

THE FOOD FEUD- My INC Street Food Review

THE FOOD FEUD

By bringing Latin American Street Food Inside, Roswell’s INC Combines the Best of Both Worlds

By Bret Love

 

INC Street Food

948 Canton St, Roswell

770.998.3114

www.incstreetfood.com

 

Although you don’t often see it in Atlanta, in some American cities there are budding feuds between food trucks and brick-and-mortar restaurants.  These mobile eateries serve up street food fare fast, and at prices the rent-paying restaurants can ill afford to match.  The battle has gotten so bad along L.A.’s Miracle Mile (where some owners estimate food trucks have cut their sales by 20%) that the restaurants recently enlisted help from a city councilman to outlaw these portable proprietors.

 

Hicham Azhari, Fikret Kovac and Executive Chef Richard Wilt– the team behind Roswell’s dearly missed Little Alley and the always-busy Salt Factory– sagely recognized how the economic downturn was impacting the way people dine out.  Their latest venture, INC Street Food, is the best of both worlds, offering up robust Latin American street food in a hip atmosphere at recession-friendly prices.

 

The interior design quite literally brings the street inside, with vivid graffiti lining seemingly age-worn walls, rustically painted tables and sturdy industrial-style light fixtures.  The open kitchen is cleverly designed to look like a food truck, complete with metal sides, a license plate and a ladder on the back.  Lively Latin music pulses through the speaker; the bustling bar attracts a colorful, multi-racial crowd; and the waiters are dressed in jeans, baseball Ts and shoulder bags reminiscent of young street vendors.  It’s all very casual and cool, the kind of jumping joint you’d see on a weekend night in urban Brazil or Colombia.

 

“All the Mexican restaurants in Atlanta are basically the same,” says Azhari when asked about the inspiration behind his new venture.  “I can recite their menus by heart. But the real food of Latin America needs to be discovered.”

 

To that end, Wilt has crafted a diverse menu drawing on traditional influences spanning Central and South America.  Posole– corn soaked in limewater and lightly fried to tangy, crunchy perfection– is brought to the table as a unique alternative to chips and salsa, providing perfect accompaniment to the sweetness of the INC Margarita, which comes with a Chambord Raspberry liqueur floater.  The Bocaditos (or “starters”) are universally excellent, from the Argentinian Style Empanadas and Gaucho Marinated Skirt Steak Skewers to Salvadoran Chicken Pupusa and steamed Pork Tamales.  At under $10 each, they could easily be combined for a shared tapas-style meal.

 

Their tacos (served with arroz Mexicano and black beans) are a world away from what you’d expect at a typical Mexican joint, stuffed with everything from Chili-Rubbed Skirt Steak and Seared Ahi Tuna to BBQ Octopus and melt-in-your-mouth Veal Cheek. You can also get more substantial entrees such as Brazilian Style Fish Stew, which has a delicately spicy coconut milk broth, and Pollo Con Poblano Salsa Gratinados, a roasted half-chicken served with chili potatoes, poblano and queso.

 

The kitchen had not yet started serving desserts when we visited during INC’s opening week, but their Aguas Frescas (including authentic Coconut water and rice and cinnamon-infused Horchata) offered a refreshing end to our meal. All in all there were surprisingly few kinks left to be ironed out, foreshadowing a bright future for INC Street Food on the burgeoning Roswell restaurant scene.

(originally appeared in Jezebel)

 

 

 

SOUTHERN FRIED FOODIE- South City Kitchen Vinings review

SOUTH CITY KITCHEN- VININGS

1675 Cumberland Pkwy, Suite 401, Smyrna GA 30080

770-435-0700

www.southcitykitchen.com.

 

Anyone who lives OTP knows how hard it can be to find a decent upscale restaurant, but the Vinings area seems to be getting more than its fair share of winners. Opened in 2006– 13 years after the award winning original South City Kitchen in Midtown– this Fifth Group restaurant is an equally impressive gem, bringing modern Southern cuisine to the Cobb County ‘burbs.

 

The restaurant’s laid-back cosmopolitan sophistication proves perfectly suited to the Vinings vibe, featuring a massive bar with communal tables and cozy booths that encourages groups to linger into the night. The open exhibition kitchen provides an entertaining view for the 140-seat dining room, where warm hardwoods, white linen tablecloths and dim lighting combine to create a cozy atmosphere.

 

Executive Chef Chip Ulbrich (formerly of Food Studio) has done a wonderful job with the restaurant’s Southern-style menu, crafting simple yet eloquent dishes that come across like gourmet comfort food. Starters such as Fried Green Tomatoes with goat cheese and sweet red pepper coulis, and Georgia Gouda Fritters with charred corn salad, BBQ aioli and cane syrup were almost wickedly delicious. But the entrees, including traditional faves such as Buttermilk Fried Chicken, Sautéed Shrimp & Scallops with grits and garlic gravy, and Smoked Beef Brisket with bacon braised mustard greens, were somehow even better. Best of all, the menu is seasonal, so there’s almost always something new to tempt your taste buds. – BRET LOVE

SWANKY SUSHI- Steel Restaurant & Lounge Review

STEEL RESTAURANT & LOUNGE

950 West Peachtree St, Suite 255

404-477-6111

www.steelatlanta.com

 

If food prices were based solely on style, this swanky Indochine restaurant in the Plaza Midtown would be among the most expensive in Atlanta. The décor practically reeks of class, from the warm teak wood surroundings and eye-catching water wall behind the bar to lighting designed like sleek skyscrapers and eye-catching modern art by Shane Pennington. Fortunately, despite their slick approach, Steel’s prices prove surprisingly budget-friendly, averaging around $15 per person for lunch and $30 for dinner.

 

Sushi Chef Johnny Chu offers a range of rolls sure to tempt even the most devout nigiri nuts. From the tangy tartness of the Japanese Ceviche Roll (with chopped octopus, squid, shrimp, crab and red clam) to the feisty kick of the Firecracker Roll (spicy tuna with avocado, crab and jalapenos), Chu shows surprising creativity for a place where sushi isn’t the main focus.

 

Meanwhile, Executive Chef Christopher Maher’s menu draws from a variety of traditional Asian influences (including Chinese, Japanese, Korean and Vietnamese), infusing them with decidedly modern flourishes. The simple Beef and Chicken Hot Rocks allows diners to cook their own meats right at the table, while Crabmeat Mango Spring Rolls put a refreshing tropical twist on the classic appetizer. From the delectable simplicity of Combination Fried Rice (rich with the flavors of beef, chicken, shrimp and spices) and the sweet tang of Mandarin Orange Chicken to signature entrees such as melt-in-your-mouth Chilean Sea Bass, Steel ultimately proves miles above your typical Asian restaurant.

 

And with an amazing wine selection, delicious cocktails such as the Blackberry Mojito and Lychee-tini,  and delectable desserts such as the Chocolate Maki Roll and Banana Egg Roll, it also proves a tempting spot in which to lounge away an entire evening. –BRET LOVE

WHO DAT?- Serpas True Food review

SERPAS

659 Auburn Ave, #501

404-688-0040

www.serpasrestaurant.com

 

Scott Serpas has long since proven his distinctive culinary vision in the Atlanta market, first working as sous chef under Kevin Rathbun at NAVA, then serving as Executive Chef at Sia’s and Mitra before earning rave reviews for his stylistic flair at TWO urban licks. So it wasn’t so much a question of whether the South Louisiana native would branch out with his own restaurant concept, but when and where.

 

The answer came last year with the launch of Serpas True Food in Studioplex, situated in the heart of the recently resurgent Old Fourth Ward district. Originally a cotton storage factory, the historic building’s blend of rustic tradition and ultra-modern design is a perfect match for the chef’s inventive menu, which blends Cajun classics with subtle Southwestern and Asian influences.

 

Start your meal with Fried Oysters: Served with pickled chiles and mirliton (a.k.a. chayote squash), they boast a perfectly piquant flavor that oozes over your taste buds. It’s in making such simple dishes into standouts that Serpas struts his stuff, whether it’s reinventing Pigs ‘n’ Blanket by stuffing them with andouille sausage and smoked mustard or prettying up Tuna Tartar by pairing it with green apples and chile sesame dressing. As for entrees, the Duck Breast with sweet potato puree and parsnips, Jumbo Sea Scallops with spaghetti squash and panang curry, and Beef Shortrib with potato celery gratin were all delightful examples of the keep-it-simple school of culinary thought.

 

Whatever you do, don’t leave without trying the White Chocolate Cranberry Bread Pudding, which will melt in your mouth with a lusciousness that will leave you begging for seconds, if not thirds.  –BRET LOVE

CULINARY ROCK STAR- Tom Colicchio's Craft

Craft

3376 Peachtree Rd

404-995-7580

www.craftrestaurant.com

 

Atlanta has attracted more than its fair share of celeb chefs, with everyone from Emeril and Wolgang Puck to Jean-Georges Vongerichten swooping in to set up shop. NYC’s Tom Colicchio is the latest to bring his culinary concoctions to the ATL, with Craft earning glowing reviews from critics and foodies alike.

 

It’s easy to see why people are buzzing: From the moment you walk in the doors of the dramatic two-story building, it’s clear that Craft is dressed to impress. From the wood-fired copper and steel grill and the bar made from solid walnut to the blackened steel and glass wine vault and hand-blown Tesla light bulbs, the restaurant reeks of sophistication. Yet the pervasive earth tones simultaneously give it a warm, relaxed atmosphere, with the attentive (yet unobtrusive) waitstaff timing every table visit perfectly.

 

In an era when too many chefs emphasize style over substance, Colicchio’s focus on fresh ingredients served without heavy sauces or overly fussy presentation is deceptively simple. We started with a sampling of delectable oysters, savoring the differences in flavor, before devouring an appetizer of hamachi (a.k.a. yellowtail) and pineapple in which the sweet tartness of the fruit provided a perfect complement to the subtlety of the fish. Choosing among chef de cuisine Kevin Maxey’s entrees proved difficult, but we ultimately settled on seared Diver Scallops served with a Mushroom Jus, Muscovy Duck Breast & Leg Confit that practically melts in your mouth and, my favorite, braised Beef Short Ribs served with Root Vegetables.

 

By the time we’d finished our dessert (Milk Chocolate Tart with Espresso-Cardamom Ice Cream), we were stuffed to the point of bursting, swearing to ourselves we’d return soon to sample more of Colicchio’s menu, which proves chefs don’t need a lot of flash if they’ve perfected their… um… Craft.  – BRET LOVE

LIFE OTP- Sia's

SIA’S

10305 Medlock Bridge Rd, Duluth

770.497.9727

siasrestaurant.com

 

If you were blindfolded and taken to Sia’s with no knowledge of where you were going, you’d have a hard time guessing you were in the OTP ‘burbs. Opened in 1998 by Sia Moshk, former GM of the Buckhead Life Group’s Atlanta Fish Market and 103 West, the restaurant looks like it was plucked straight from Midtown, with warm beige and chocolate colors, rich wooden accents and flattering lighting creating a perfect romantic ambiance.

 

Executive Chef Rogerio Martins’ modern American menu is equally cosmopolitan, bringing in subtle Latin and Mediterranean culinary influences. Seared Yellowfin Tuna & Avocado Napoleon served on a crispy wanton with wasabi aioli provided a delectable start to our meal, while their Flash Fried Bluepoint Oysters rival Scott Serpas’ for the best in the ATL. We couldn’t agree which dish we liked better– the Caramelized Sea Scallops with smoked gouda grits, Tagine of Lamb Osso Bucco with dill basmati rice, or the Seared Yellowfin Tuna with soba noodles– but fortunately the Taste of Sia’s (a chef’s choice of four entrees) allowed us to try all three.

 

But perhaps the best thing about Sia’s is the man himself– a warm, gregarious storyteller who encourages guests to stay a while, have a drink and savor the finer things in life. No matter which side of the perimeter you live on, that’s a sentiment we could all use a little more of.

CASUALLY COOL- Roswell's Oak Street Cafe

OAK STREET CAFÉ

45 Oak St, Roswell

770-594-1300

www.oakstcafe.com

 

Restaurants with the word “café” in their name tend to lead to lowered expectations, which may partially explain why this quaint eatery in historic Roswell has emerged as such a popular brunch/lunch spot. Located in the SOCA shopping center next to a chic interior design shop and art gallery, the café attracts an upscale mix of ladies who lunch and city employees drawn by the quick service and excellent casual gourmet menu.

 

Don’t let the counter service and moderate prices (most of their lunch selections are around $8) fool you: Here, even simple dishes such as butternut squash soup are subtle revelations, balancing the sweet and savory with a culinary expert’s flair. Sandwiches such as the Lafayette (grilled chicken breast with thick-cut bacon, Emmenthaler cheese, grilled onion, lettuce and smoky mayo on a toasted baguette) and the Crab Cake (roasted red peppers, arugula and smoky mayo on a challah bun) offer an explosion of flavor, while their 9-ounce Oak Burger has become the stuff of local legend.

 

As good as the lunches are, Oak Street Café really shines at night, when the warm décor (including art from the gallery next door), flattering lighting and mellow music establish a mood that makes it feel like you’ve stumbled into an intimate foodie hideaway. Entrees such as the short rib ravioli in tomato sauce topped with grana padano, “Chicken Cacciatore” risotto, and “Mac & Cheese” (which, consisting of creamy radiatore with fontina, cheddar, pecorino gran cru and bacon, is like NOTHING Kraft ever imagined) put a unique spin on homestyle cooking, while their full bar practically begs you to linger long enough to sample their scrumptious desserts. Best of all, the lack of a crowd allows you to do just that. – BRET LOVE

SOUTHERN COMFORT- Roswell's Relish

RELISH

590 Mimosa Blvd, Roswell GA 30075

770-650-7877

www.relishgoodfood.com

 

Opened in August 2007, this laid-back charmer is the latest from proprietor Andy Badgett, who originally made his name on the OTP restaurant scene with Asher. After that upscale eatery closed in 2003, Badgett went on to open the ever-popular Fickle Pickle before bringing in Executive Chef Ignacio Barquera (formerly of Van Gogh’s) to oversee the kitchen here. Proof that “upscale Southern cuisine” is not an oxymoron, Relish is  so cotton-pickin’ good that it’s made a fan of celeb chef Alton Brown.

 

The restaurant boasts a prime location overlooking Roswell’s historic square, with an expansive outdoor patio and warm, welcoming interior that includes two dining rooms and a Special Events room that can accommodate up to 60 people. Hardwood booths and tables work with splashes of green and cream to create a homey Southern vibe that encourages guests to set a spell (which may partially explain why theirs is one of North Atlanta’s most popular Sunday brunches). There's also a recently expanded bar area that buzzes with activity on weekend nights.

 

Of course, what keeps them coming back is Badgett’s inventive menu, which blends traditional Southern fare with some surprising modern twists. Cucumber lemonade makes a refreshing beverage (even better with Jack Daniels!), while unique appetizers such as Pimiento Cheese Fritters served with pepper jelly and Crispy Fried Oysters with green tomato tartar sauce are tasty enough to make a meal in their own right. Of course, then you’d miss out on excellent entrees such as the Crab Cake sandwich, Hickory Smoked Spare Ribs with Coca-Cola BBQ sauce and Shrimp & Grits with tasso gravy. And don’t dare leave without trying their Krispy Kreme Bread Pudding with espresso kreme, a sinfully delicious twist on coffee and donuts. –BRET LOVE

(Originally appeared in Atlanta Social Season)

THE ART OF CUISINE- Painted Table Cafe

Painted Table Café

465 Boulevard SE

404.622.4353

www.paintedtablecafe.com

The first thing you should know about Grant Park’s Painted Table Café is that there are, in fact, NO painted tables. Instead, the name is indicative of owner Omega Angell’s love of the arts, both visual and culinary.

 

The dining room’s walls are lined with locally produced artwork (five pieces sold in the first week after opening in early November), every restaurant employee is an artist of some sort, and the cafe’s motto is “Let our palette paint your palate with flavor.” Angell even signs every plate he sends out, skillfully dripping the Greek symbol for Omega in various sauces. It’s a classy twist on the diner concept, with the warm orange walls, vibrantly colored paintings, hand-made light fixtures above the bar and sultry Rat Pack-era jazz on the stereo creating a surprisingly sophisticated mood for a place that serves breakfast all day.

 

Angell, who grew up working in his parents’ restaurant and hung out with punk-rock legends Rancid before attending the Culinary Institute of America, has a decidedly unique, anti-corporate stance on the way restaurants should be run. Nearly 80% of his vegetables are locally grown, and Angell will gladly sing the praises of the Georgia farmers he’s proud to work with. All of his Painted Hills beef is hormone-free, free range and grass-fed, as are the Springer Mountain chicken and eggs. And Angell seems truly passionate about his community, speaking fondly of nearby competitors Stone Soup Kitchen and Solstice Café.

 

If the chef seems unconcerned about the competition, it’s because his knack for high class/low-cost cuisine more than speaks for itself. His menu offers distinctive twists on traditional favorites, concocting comfort food with creative flair. A simple dish like Crunchin’ French Toast is rendered more complex via Angell’s batter-coated, frosted flake-flecked crust, which is then topped with Georgia peaches and a vanilla-orange anglaise. Angell’s burgers and sandwiches are equally impressive, from the remarkably spicy Blackened Tuna Burger (with cucumber, avocado and wasabi aioli) to the hearty Hot Roast Beef Sandwich, an open-faced smorgasbord of grilled Texas toast, garlic mashed potatoes, succulent beef and rich brown gravy guaranteed to warm you up on a cold winter’s day.

 

But for the best evidence of Angell’s unfussy culinary brilliance, look no further than the first item on his menu: Shrimp & Grits. The dish has become a must-have for Southern-style restaurants, but his version excels thanks to slow-cooked stone-ground cheese grits, a half-pound of jumbo tiger shrimp, fire-roasted red bell peppers, mushrooms, pancetta, caramelized onion and a spicy red gravy whose secret ingredients include Angell’s own coffee blend (which he’ll soon sell at Painted Table).

 

Most new restaurants take some time to find their footing, but this one is off to a strong start thanks to the hands-on owner/chef’s distinctive vision and 30+ years of experience. His former employers at the Flying Biscuit (which is now owned by Raving Brands) are making a good run at being the biggest all-day breakfast spot in town, but Angell is clearly angling to be the best. –BRET LOVE

(originally appeared in Jezebel)

 

 

 

 

 

TOP TAPAS- Salt Factory

SALT FACTORY

952 Canton St, Roswell

770.998.4850

redsaltpub.com

 

Words cannot describe how disappointed we were to find out our favorite tapas bar, Little Alley, had recently closed down. Fortunately, owners Hicham Azhari and Fikret Kovac made it up to us by opening this little OTP gem, which was formerly known as Red Salt.

 

Set in the heart of Historic Roswell on the same foodie-friendly street as Indigo, Pastis and Rice, Salt Factory comes across like a swanky gastropub/wine bar offering comfort food with decidedly international influences. Brick walls and hardwood floors and tables give it warmth, while moody lighting and music give it the hip vibe of an intown hotspot (appropriate, since the night we visited the sidewalk was lined with people waiting to get in at 6pm).

 

We were delighted to see a few faves held over from the Little Alley menu, including Thai-Style Braised Beef Short Ribs and Keftegie, a North African veggie dip made from potatoes, pumpkin and chile sauce. We managed to find a few new favorites too, including Seared Ahi Tuna with roasted butternut squash and portobella mushrooms, and London Broil served with cheddar mashed potatoes and crispy onions. We were also excited to learn that Azhari and Kovac are opening a new restaurant (INC Street Food) just a few doors down soon, and can’t wait to see what they dream up next. –BRET LOVE

(Originally appeared in Jezebel)