OCEANS- Movie Review

OCEANS- Long before The Cove or March Of The Penguins, Disney’s “True-Life Adventures” series presented stunning visions of the wonder and fragility of nature that encouraged audiences to embrace and preserve the world’s natural beauty. Produced between 1948 and 1960, that award-winning series was clearly the inspiration behind Disneynature, the independent Mouse House production arm responsible for last year’s excellent eco-themed documentary, Earth. 

The imprint’s second film, which was co-directed by Jacques Perrin and Jacques Cluzaud (Winged Migration), takes a similar approach, balancing jaw-dropping visuals with sober musings on the underwater world’s future. “Wow!” is the operative word here, perfect for responding to everything from otherworldly pods of glowing jellyfish and beach-bound orcas gobbling seals for supper to massive schools of leaping dolphins and epic stone crab battles that look like lost scenes from The Lord Of The Rings. 

Keeping it’s core kiddie audience in mind, the film is careful not to get too heavy-handed with its lecturing on the importance of saving our oceans from the threats of pollution, over-fishing and global warming. But at times you may find yourself wishing Pierce Brosnan’s narration had a bit more consciousness-raising substance to match Perrin and Cluzaud’s remarkable visual style. 

Still, there are enough moments of wide-eyed wonder here to dazzle audiences of all ages, making up for a lack of storytelling with some of the most exquisite undersea images ever filmed. It may not win any Oscars, but Oceans would almost certainly make the legendary Jacques Costeau proud. (B) –Bret Love

CARTAGENA, COLOMBIA- The *Real* Emerald City

THE REAL EMERALD CITY- CARTAGENA, COLOMBIA EMERGES AS ONE OF SOUTH AMERICA’S GREATEST UNDISCOVERED GEMS

By Bret Love

 

“There are three things we are known for,” explains our gregarious Colombian guide/translator, Jose Villa Rodriguez, during lunch as he holds up three fingers in front of his knowing smile. “Emeralds, coffee and beautiful women!” I don’t know much about the dazzling green gems patiently polished into stunning earrings, rings and necklaces in the quietly buzzing workroom at Joyeria Caribe—the city of Cartagena’s most esteemed jewelry manufacturers­– but I can certainly attest to the world-class quality of the latter two features.

 

My buddy DeMarco and I flew into Cartagena, knowing precious little about the city aside from what we could find on Wikipedia. The reasons for this seem to be twofold: For one, the Internet has not yet developed into quite the phenomenon in South America that it is in the United States and, perhaps consequently, American travelers have not yet discovered what an amazing city this historic portal to the South American continent truly is.

 

Properly known as Cartagena des Indias (to distinguish it from the Spanish city after which it was named), this bustling seaport on Colombia’s northern coast was founded in 1533 by Pedro de Heredia and quickly emerged as a major hub of commerce and transportation in the early Spanish settlement of the Americas. After legendary pirates such as Martín Cote and Francis Drake began to plunder the prosperous city, in the early 17^th century the Spanish crown approved the construction of numerous fortresses and approximately 11km of walls surrounding Cartagena. Beginning in 1606, the construction took over 200 years, and the impressive results were named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984 and remain among Cartagena’s most impressive sights.

 

But the truth is, the entire city is practically bursting with history, as we realized almost immediately after our arrival at La Passion, a stunning new boutique bed and breakfast set in a 19^th century Spanish mansion. Located in the heart of the Walled City just a few blocks from the Caribbean Sea, La Passion’s password-protected doors, intimacy (there are less than 10 guest rooms) and amenities such as breakfast served beside the gorgeous rooftop pool made it the perfect headquarters for our explorations, with almost every historically significant landmark within walking distance.

 

Which proved to be a good thing, as the narrow streets are often too congested for even the tiny local taxis to proceed at more than a snail’s pace. As we strolled along, vendors hawking everything from jewelry and artwork to T-shirts and sunglasses, street mimes looking to make a quick buck, fruit and vegetable carts, students hanging out between classes at the local university and the aforementioned beautiful women all vied for our attention, as strains of cumbia, champeta and salsa music streamed from the surrounding shops. But it’s the gorgeous republican, Italian and colonial-style architecture of the Old City’s buildings that truly make it a wonder to behold.

 

From simple homes to grand cathedrals, virtually every building in the area is worthy of a picture postcard.  There’s Teatro Heredia (Heredia Theater), a majestic edifice whose posh interior hosts a variety of concerts and cultural events; Puerta del Reloj (Clock Gate), the official entrance to the downtown Cartagena area, which opens out onto the bustling marketplace of Plaza de los Coches (Square of the Carriages); San Pedro Claver Church, where a priest conducts evening mass while young children feed vast flocks of pigeons in the sculpture-filled square outside; Plaza de Bolivar, where horse-drawn carriages line up in front of a 16^th century cathedral; the restored Santa Domingo Church, whose plaza features the sculpture Mujer Reclinada ("Reclining Woman"), a gift from renowned Colombian artist Fernando Botero; and too many others to mention.

 

Needless to say, by the time we made our way to El Santísimo, a nuevo-Caribbean restaurant featuring innovative cuisine served up in a tropical courtyard lined with folk art, Colombia’s intense heat and humidity had combined with a long day of travel and walking to render us completely exhausted. After hungrily scarfing down a scrumptious dinner of salad, fresh seafood and coconut rice (both of which are local specialties), we were too exhausted to even consider exploring Cartagena’s notoriously bustling nightlife scene, so we headed back to La Passion to sleep like the dead.

 

The next morning we were up at dawn for another long day of activities, starting off with a tour of San Felipe de Barajas castle, which was named for King Philip IV. A major trading port for precious metals and slaves, Cartagena was seen as a prize jewel in the Spanish crown, and as we explored the fort Jose recounted grand tales of the illustrious Battle of Cartagena, in which the Spaniards used the sentry boxes, underground tunnels and massive cannons to repel attacks by more than 23,000 British troops.

 

From there it was off to the Inquisition Palace, which has been turned into a museum featuring all of the original features it had when it was built in 1770. From a stretching rack and stockade to a guillotine and hanging platform, the museum is a haunting reminder of the Spanish Inquisition’s fearsome presence in the region from 1610 up until Cartagena’s independence in 1811.

 

Just down the street lies El Museo del Oro Zenú (Zenú Gold Museum), which charts the pre-Colombian history of the region’s original inhabitants, who first settled in Colombia over 11,000 years ago. Filled with pottery, musical instruments, textiles and the intricately filigreed gold jewelry for which the Zenú were known, the museum also pays tribute to their remarkably innovative agricultural developments, which included ingenious waterway systems designed to control drainage and irrigation. And don’t miss the excellent museum shop next door, Galeria Cano, where collectors can find upscale Colombian art created by local craftsmen.

 

After another delicious lunch during which we guzzled down glasses of chorozo (which tastes like a sweet cranberry) and pineapple juice, we headed up to visit Convento de la Popa, a 400-year-old monastery sitting on a hill 500 feet over Cartagena. Locals walk up the steep hill every morning, past 14 crosses representing the stations of the passion, for mass in the monastery’s 21k gold-laden chapel. Making our way through the tranquil inner courtyard, we found ourselves in front of a statue of the Virgin of Cadelaria, who is credited with delivering the city from the ravages of disease and pirates. The spectacular 360º views of the city and Cartagena Bay alone make La Popa an absolute must-see.

 

As the sun began to set, we made our way to the Plaza de la Aduana (Customs Square) for a sizzling performance by Mapale troupe Afro Columbia, whose pounding tribal rhythms, infectious melodies, colorful costumes and dazzling African-influenced dance moves attracted a massive crowd unaccustomed to seeing these local cultural treasures playing outside of upscale venues like Teatro Heredia. From there it was on to dinner at Club de Pesca, a seaside restaurant where a sultry latin jazz ensemble, strong drinks, fresh fish and great company (courtesy of Jose and our Contactos guide, Esmerelda Martínez) made for an enjoyable end to our extraordinarily full day.

 

Our last day in Colombia was our favorite, as we left bright and early for a visit to the Rosario Islands. Making a brief stop at Bocachica’s San Fernando Fort, strategically placed at the entrance to the bay, we made our way our to Majagua Island, a beautifully unspoiled tropical paradise located 30 minutes off the coast of Cartagena. The small San Pedro de Majagua hotel (where we swore to stay next time) was practically deserted, with two white sand beaches and plenty of hammocks to provide the feeling you were far from civilization.

 

Our tour included the option of visiting an aquarium, going scuba diving or snorkeling, so we chose the latter option, venturing to an even smaller island, Isla Pavito, with an even smaller resort. Donning masks and flippers, we set out from the rocky beach to find a manmade reef of sunken barrels swarming with tropical fish a mere 20 yards away. Further out, natural coral attracted brilliantly colored parrotfish, puffers and angelfish by the dozens, with water so warm and crystal clear you could see every detail.

 

Later that night we returned to town to view a different sort of wildlife at Mr. Babilla’s Restaurant & Discoteque. Legendary on the local scene, this nightclub was deserted when we arrived for dinner at 9PM, but by the time we’d graduated to drinks it was becoming increasingly packed, and by midnight there were literally people dancing on the tables.

 

There are a lot of misconceptions about Colombia lingering from its days as one of the world’s coca capitals, but Cartagena is a wondrous historical city that deserves all the tourist accolades showered upon European counterparts such as Venice or Prague. The emeralds and the coffee were certainly everything Jose promised, but it’s the people and the culture that make it a true undiscovered gem.

 

CARTAGENA CONTACTS

 

Contactos- Services a wide variety of tourism needs. (575) 665-1300, www.contactos.com.co.

 

Jose Villa Rodriguez- Private tourist guide/translator. (311)438-3458, josevillarodriguez@yahoo.com.

 

Expreso Brasilia- Offers bus tours between Cartagena, Barranquilla and Santa Mara. www.expresobrasilia.com.

 

La Passion- Intimate bed & breakfast in the heart of downtown Cartagena. (575) 664-8605, www.lapassionhotel.com.

 

Sofitel Santa Clara- Gorgeous modern hotel in the former Santa Clara de Asis Convent. (575) 650-4700, www.sofitel.com.

 

Hotel San Pedro de Majagua- Like your own private island paradise. (575) 664-6070, www.hotelmajagua.com.

 

Isla Pavito/Dolphin Dive School- The ultimate remote Colombian getaway. (575) 664-0814, www.dolphindiveschool.com.

(originally appeared in Spirit Airlines' Skylights)

PRODIGAL SONS- Movie Review

PRODIGAL SONS- This thought-provoking documentary is all about identity and choices: Who we choose to be as individuals, how we choose to live our lives, who we choose to love, and how we deal with situations in which it seems we have no choice. Paul McKerrow grew up the golden child of a loving family in small town Montana, the middle of three sons born 3 years apart. Handsome, smart and strong, he graduated as class President and valedictorian, captain of the football team, and the object of every cheerleader’s affection. Twenty years later, Paul is now Kimberly Reed, a transgendered film director returning to her hometown for the first time for a high school reunion. The trip also marks her reunion with adopted older brother Marc, who has had a hard-knock life: held back in preschool, failed to graduate high school, suffered a serious head injury at age 21, and has never gotten over the feeling that he’s been cheated out of the life he deserves. The film pulls a rope-a-dope sucker punch, feigning the audience into believing the drama will come from the community’s lack of acceptance of Kimberly’s transition, when in fact the emotional dynamics largely come from Marc’s mental breakdown. What begins as an almost endearing social awkwardness quickly turns vicious and ugly, as Marc hurls insults at Kimberly and her girlfriend, physically assaults their younger brother (who is gay), and eventually pulls a knife during a holiday celebration. He’s a train wreck of a man desperate to control his own life, but he clearly can’t even control his own emotional impulses despite an obvious love for his family. It’s a fascinating, heartbreaking portrait of familial dysfunction and mental illness, more complex and profoundly revelatory than anything most Hollywood screenwriters could dare to dream up. Sometimes, truth really is stranger—and more intriguing– than fiction. (A)  

BUILDING BRIDGES- My Interview w/Ludacris

BUILDING BRIDGES- LUDACRIS ON STAYING HUMBLE AND HUNGRY

By Bret Love

 

The man born Chris Bridges 30 years ago in Champaign, Illinois, initially made a name for himself as a DJ on Atlanta hip-hop radio station Hot 97.5 during the dawn of the Dirty South scene’s rise (when he was better known as DJ Chris Lova Lova). Eventually, of course, he left radio and changed his name to Ludacris, ultimately becoming one of hip-hop’s hottest MCs by signing to Def Jam South and releasing a string of hits that included #1 singles “Stand Up” and “Money Maker” and Top 10 smashes such as “Move Bitch,” “Splash Waterfalls” and “Pimpin’ All Over the World.” Though he may not be an original ATLien, Ludacris quickly established himself as one of the South’s most commercially successful rappers and in-demand guest artists.

 

But mere success as an artist wasn’t enough. Teaming up with associate Chaka Zulu, Ludacris formed his own boutique label at Def Jam, Disturbing Tha Peace, and released albums by a diverse roster of artists that included Field Mob, Playaz Circle and Bobby Valentino. After making his feature film debut in 2 Fast 2 Furious, he dedicated himself to learning the acting craft and subsequently earned standout roles in Oscar-caliber films such as Hustle & Flow and Crash. Perhaps more importantly, he started his own charity foundation, helping underprivileged kids by teaching them principles of success, sponsoring Christmas toy drives and giving away more than 500 turkey dinners over the holidays.

 

We recently spoke with the always-opinionated rapper about Atlanta’s thriving urban music scene, working with director Guy Ritchie (a.k.a. Mr. Madonna) and how he’s managed to stay relevant in the here-today-gone-tomorrow world of hip-hop for over a decade.

 

 

 

You were a DJ on Atlanta radio back in the ‘90s when the Dirty South hip-hop explosion first happened. What are some of your favorite memories of the scene during that time?

 

I just remember when Rowdy Records, So So Def and LaFace Records were all real prominent in the industry, and they were all located in Atlanta. Dallas Austin had Rowdy Records, and he was working with Monica and Kris Kross and all that; you had everybody on So So Def; then on LaFace you had upstarts like Usher, Toni Braxton and TLC; and then of course you had Goodie Mob and Outkast. To me, that’s really where it all began as far as Atlanta being considered the Motown of the South.

 

How do you think the urban music scene here today compares with places like New York City and Los Angeles?

 

Today I think it’s pretty evident that the South is the driving force of hip-hop, as far as presence and sales are concerned. I think every region has its time, and right now the South is dominant. I feel like there’s a lot of talent here, and a lot of great examples to provide motivation. That’s one of the reasons I got on my grind, because I saw so much going on here that I felt like there was no way it couldn’t happen for me with all the resources that were available to me here in the South.

 

As someone who’s been in the hip-hop game for over a decade now, how do you feel about the ways that the music and the industry have changed over the last 10 years?

 

I feel like things are always gonna change over time; you just have to adjust yourself to the changing environment of music. So basically I feel great about it, and look forward to the future. I look forward to more technology, because seeing it firsthand and experiencing change while it’s happening is one of the greatest virtues of life, in my opinion. You become your own worst enemy when you try to stay stuck in one point in time.

 

A lot of people criticize hip-hop radio for dumbing down the format. Do you feel that it’s gotten harder for innovative artists to break through?

 

No, I don’t think it’s harder for creative people to break through. First of all, history always repeats itself, and it’s all about people’s OPINIONS of what being creative really is. With that being said, there are different kinds of music and different kinds of hip-hop, whether it be the dance-friendly kind of the Soulja Boys or the [more conscious artists like] Kanye West. People have different opinions of what hip-hop really is, so people can choose what they wanna listen to.

Are there any particular artists on today’s scene whose sound you’re really feeling?

 

Man, I’m really a fan of Lil’ Wayne right now. I really think that he’d doing his thing as far as his talent and his flow.

 

A lot of rappers have obviously tried the acting gig at some point in their career, but you’ve had better luck than most. What’s the secret to successfully crossing over from hip-hop to Hollywood?

 

(Laughs) There is no real secret, man. At the end of the day, you either have the talent or you don’t, and you either take it seriously or you don’t. Those two things combined determine your success. A lot of rappers—a lot of entertainers, period—are given the opportunity to act just because of our popularity and who we are, so the difference between breaking through or not breaking through is how serious we take it. Studying the craft, working on your role, being humble and not thinking you know everything, and coming into it as a student, all of that has a lot to do with it.

 

Where does acting stand in relation to music on your career priority list?

 

Music is always my No. 1 love. But I find it challenging. Put it this way: whenever I focus on something, I like to concentrate my energy 100% on it. When I was in movie mode, I was not in music mode at all. I don’t want to get stereotyped as just another rapper-actor. I try to take it seriously, and I always feel I can get better. Right now, I’m back to music mode. But [acting] is definitely something I’d like to continue to do in the future.

 

I rode you drove your 1993 Acura for a long time because it helped keep you grounded. How hard is it to hold onto the essence of who you are when you’re surrounded by all the various trappings of fame?

 

(Laughs) I’m driving my 1993 Acura Legend as we speak! It does keep my grounded, man. Nobody really expects me to be driving this, but it’s just the memory of who I was and where I was when all of this began that’s most important to me. I don’t really let a lot of this fame get to my head. I have to stay grounded and remain who I am, and [the car] is just one of those reminders that takes me back to the grind.

 

But doesn’t that ideal go against the materialistic nature of what a lot of today’s hip-hop is about– getting the yacht, the Bentley and all that?

 

I have all of that stuff, too! (Laughs) But I stay true to who I am by setting goals for myself and constantly striving to achieve them.

 

Are you disappointed with any aspect of your life?

 

I’m just disappointed over the privacy issue sometimes. I’m recognized ALL of the time, so I can’t just do and go wherever the hell I want to by myself. I can, but there’s always an issue with it.  Autographs and shit like that. That’s great, ‘cuz it comes with the territory. But sometimes you just wanna shop or not be bothered. That’s the only thing.

 

Are there any particular hip-hop icons that you look up to and have tried to model your career after?

 

Russell Simmons is the man who laid the blueprint for anyone else I would probably name. I really look up to him. His business sense, how humble he is, and his desire to give back and acknowledge his responsibility here on Earth is extremely impressive.

 

That brings me right to my next question. Your charity organization, The Ludacris Foundation, does a lot of good work in the metro Atlanta area around the holidays.

 

Absolutely! We just gave away turkeys to over 500 families in need over the Thanksgiving holidays, including organizations that help out battered women, senior citizens and underprivileged kids. This is something we do every year, and for Christmas we did a toy drive and gave those to underprivileged families as well. But we’re constantly doing different things in the community.

 

Is there a central mission behind the foundation?

 

To help kids and families help themselves.

 

In one of your press releases, you talk about teaching kids the principles of success. What are the primary principles you hope kids will learn from you?

 

(Laughs) Well, the ones that are written down specifically I don’t have in my hands right now. But to put it in my own words, success is about being yourself, self-education and self-motivation. If we don’t do those things for ourselves, nobody else is gonna do it for us.

 

Why do you think the mainstream media tends to focus on the negative aspects of hip-hop artists’ lives, but doesn’t give much ink to the good things people like you and Russell Simmons are doing through your charity foundations?

 

You know, they try to paint us as bad individuals, and that’s a whole separate conversation. I could go on and on about that. But I feel like people try and put the blame on rap music for the simple fact that we definitely have a lot of influence over a lot of people. That being said, it’s all about negativity. But I don’t attribute violence to hip-hop; I attribute violence to ignorance. I don’t wanna stereotype and say that everybody does it, because there are certain publications that do focus on the positive things that are going on. But for the majority, you’re right.

 

How would you say your music has evolved as you’ve gotten older and more mature?

 

With every album I’m always escalating and taking it another direction. I’m perfecting my craft, becoming better. As you get older, you change as a person. But of course you’ll always hear the same Ludacris that most of the core audience loves. Then it’s always about taking things to the next level and doing things that people wouldn’t normally expect me to do.

 

After more than 10 years in the business, what would you say are the secrets to career longevity?

 

Staying consistent and staying grounded. It’s just that simple.

 

 (originally appeared in Georgia Music Magazine)

 

 

THE WHIGS- In The Dark Review

THE WHIGS

In The Dark

ATO

 

The Whigs have been on a slow, steady climb towards national stardom for four years now, ever since Rolling Stone named the Athens-based band one of “10 Artists To Watch” in the wake of their independently released 2005 debut, Give ‘Em All A Big Fat Lip. Within a year they had been signed to Dave Matthews’ ATO label, and by 2008’s Mission Control the band had become more confident in their blend of classic garage rock and more modern alt-rock influences.

 

After replacing original bassist Hank Sullivant (who joined MGMT) with Tim Deaux, the band embarked on a series of memorable late night talk show performances and high-profile tours. Returning home a much tighter trio, the group began writing and recording their third album in Athens with producer Ben Allen (Animal Collective). The result, In The Dark, represents another big step forward in The Whigs’ artistic evolution.

 

The first difference you’ll notice is an increased focus on the rhythm section of Deaux and Julian Dorio. According to frontman Parker Gispert, nine of these 11 songs began as drum and bass grooves, with Gispert’s guitar and vocal melodies woven in around them. The result is a tighter, more propulsive sound, with the opening “Hundred/Million” rollicking along for 54 seconds before the first guitar riff comes crashing in like a tidal wave and takes the track to a whole ‘nother level. When the guitar stands front and center on a song like “Kill Me Carolyne,” it recalls the Replacements and R.E.M., establishing The Whigs as heirs to that college-rock throne.

 

In The Dark is not a perfect album, but it is a very good one, suggesting the band may soon be headlining the same big venues where they supported Kings of Leon and Drive-By Truckers not too long ago. –BRET LOVE

(originally appeared in Georgia Music Magazine)

DRIVE-BY TRUCKERS- The Big To-Do Review

DRIVE-BY TRUCKERS

The Big To-Do

ATO

Twelve years after the release of their debut album and nine years after the conceptual genius of Southern Rock Opera established them as the 21^st century’s Lynyrd Skynyrd, the Drive-By Truckers are more prolific than ever. In the last two years they’ve released a studio album, a live album and a B-sides compilation, collaborated with Booker T Jones and Neil Young on the Grammy-winning Potato Hole, and recorded frontman Patterson Hood’s solo album, Murdering Oscar.

 

With so much recorded output, the band’s trademark Southern-style storytelling and 3-guitar attack has long since been established as a bona fide brand. So the only question at this point is whether or not you’re buying into their twangy country-rock sound. For fans, The Big To-Do will likely come across as the band’s most rocking album since Southern Rock Opera.

 

Hard-driving songs such as the opening “Daddy Learned To Fly” and “The Fourth Night of My Drinking” are classic DBT, but the stripped-down grooves of the slyly humorous “Drag The Lake Charlie” and the off-kilter “The Wig He Made Her Wear” are as warped and colorful as the distinctively Southern stories they tell. Bassist Shonna Tucker continues to cut her compositional teeth, contributing two of the album’s 13 tracks. The piano-driven balladry of her “You Got Another” borders on breathtaking, while Jay Gonzalez’s organs and John Neff’s haunting pedal steel give the closing “Eyes Like Glue” a high lonesome appeal.

 

The increased contributions of the other members not only takes some of the pressure off Hood and Mike Cooley’s shoulders, it allows the band’s sound to expand in an organic way. Ten albums into their career, the Drive-By Truckers remain one of rock’s most consistent bands, and The Big To-Do is another strong feather in their creative cap. –BRET LOVE

(originally appeared in Georgia Music Magazine)

SHE'S OUT OF MY LEAGUE- Movie Review

SHE’S OUT OF MY LEAGUE- Expectations can be a bitch. Going into a film with high expectations can lead to disappointment and, in the worst cases, feelings that you’ve wasted two hours of your life. Going into relationships with expectations set too high? Well, that’s simply a recipe for disaster. 

She’s Out Of My League– much like its central character, Kirk, a nerdy airport security agent pining for an abusive ex-girlfriend who still hangs out with his abusive family– benefits greatly from lowered expectations. It’s got a no-name director (Jim Field Smith), a star (Jay Baruchel) who would barely qualify for the Hollywood C-list, and about as much hype as a new Starbucks. But in the end it delivers both laughs and emotion, balancing absurdist comedy and genuine drama with a deft, nimble touch. 

The story follows Kirk’s budding relationship with Molly (Alice Kim), the upscale event planner referenced in the title. Nobody can believe these two opposites belong together, least of all Kirk, and the film derives huge laughs from watching their disparate worlds collide.  But as crazy as Kirk’s friends and family are, Baruchel and Kim keep the film grounded by playing the emotions of their love for real, even when the circumstances surrounding them border on ridiculous. 

In the end, this heartwarming coming-of-age comedy about nice guys finishing first plays like a Judd Apatow film without Judd Apatow… or big stars… or hype. And yes, that is a VERY good thing. (B) –Bret Love

(originally appeared in INsite)

HAWAII: Little Island, Big Fun

LITTLE ISLAND, BIG FUN

WHY HAWAI'I'S "BIG ISLAND" MORE THAN LIVES UP TO ITS NAME

by Bret Love

 

With a total area of 4,028 square miles– less than one-tenth the size of Georgia (59,424 square miles)– the island of Hawaii's nickname, "The Big Island," would appear to be something of a misnomer. After all, you can drive around the island's circumference from the rainy east coast city of Hilo to its sunny west coast counterpart, Kailua-Kona, in less than two hours. But what the Big Island lacks in geographical size it more than makes up for in ecological diversity, boasting 11 different ecosystems that includes the snow-capped summit of the tallest mountain in the world, an arid desert, humid tropical jungles, postcard-worthy beaches, and the world's most active volcano.

 

We began our Hawaiian adventure in the tiny hillside town of Holualoa. Though it's just a short drive from the hustle and bustle of Kailua-Kona, our stay at the quaint Holualoa Inn (www.holualoainn.com) felt far removed from the trappings of civilization. We actually had to slow our rental car to avoid hitting a wild boar crossing the road, and our pastoral stroll through the B&B's well-tended tropical gardens and coffee farm was interrupted only by various birds and mongooses in search of their morning meal. Yet its location made Holualoa Inn a perfectly tranquil base from which to explore the nearby coast.

 

Our trip got off to a rousing start when we embarked upon Captain Zodiac's Raft, Snorkel & Dolphin Adventure (www.captainzodiac.com). Leaving from Kona's Honokohau Marina, the 4-hour trek takes visitors to Kealakekua Bay, the site where Captain Cook landed upon first discovering Hawai'i (and also the site upon which he was later killed during a dispute with the natives). But the excitement began long before we even got there, with the sightings of a breaching humpback whale with young calf in tow and a massive school of hammerhead sharks swimming in search of sustenance. The bay seemed tame by comparison, with its natural harbor providing a buffer from the Big Island's pounding surf and allowing amazing opportunities to snorkel with Honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles) and a cornucopia of tropical fish.

 

On the way back we stopped at Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park (www.nps.gov/archive/puho/home.htm), a place of refuge where, until the early 19th century, Hawaiians who broke one of the ancient laws against the gods, defeated warriors and non-combatants alike could come to find safe haven. The 420-acre complex of archaeological sites was once home to several generations of powerful chiefs, and now includes temple platforms, royal fish ponds, coastal village sites and a reconstructed version of the original sacred temple.

 

The second leg of our trip found us cutting across the island to visit Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park (www.nps.gov/havo), which was designated an International Biosphere Reserve in 1980 and a World Heritage Site in 1987. The park, which encompasses both the world's most massive volcano (Mauna Loa) and its most active (Kilauea, which has been erupting continuously since 1983), had changed considerably since my previous visit in 2006. Then, my team visited the Halema'uma'u crater, traditionally considered the sacred home of the volcano goddess Pele, where we left an offering only to be blessed with a rare double rainbow as rain pelted us from the rear and sun warmed us from the front. But in 2008 a volcanic explosion damaged the overlook on which we'd once stood and covered part of Crater Rim drive, hinting that perhaps Pele had had enough visitors for the time being. Still, we had a great time hiking through the Thurston Lava Tube, learning about the park at the Visitor Center, and browsing for traditional and modern art gallery at the Volcano Art Center (www.volcanoartcenter.org).

 

Drenched by a torrential downpour, we eagerly made our way to the Kapoho coast, where sun-soaked sanctuary awaited in the form of our residence for the next two days, Shangri-La (www.paradisedarling.com). An amazing rental property featuring four Bali-style cottages, an outdoor shower and hot tub, and a private lagoon surrounded by palm trees and stocked with thousands of fish, Shangri-La is the sort of heavenly haven that will leave you canceling plans just so you can immerse yourself in its serene splendor for a few more hours.

 

Unfortunately, duty called, so the next morning we set out for a sunrise boat tour with Lava Ocean Adventures (www.lavaocean.com). Launching before the sun had crested the horizon– when wind, weather and swell conditions are at their best– we set off down the Kalapana coastline towards a massive plume of billowing smoke. There, radiating intense heat, we found the spot where glowing streams of fiery magma flow from Kilauea all the way to the Pacific, creating a black beach of lava that has gradually expanded the Big Island's land mass by over 500 acres in the last 25 years.

 

Returning to Shangri-La after a stomach-churning boat ride that left us delighted to be back on terra firma, we were sad to bid a final farewell to Kapoho, but excited to head north to the island's Kohala coast to close out our Hawaiian holiday with a visit to the 32-acre Fairmont Orchid (www.fairmont.com/orchid). This 5-star resort offers something for everyone: Luxury lovers can play golf, savor impeccable cuisine and indulge in a relaxing treatment at the Spa WIthout Walls (all of which are administered in either a tropical garden surrounded by waterfalls or private beach-side tents); adventurous types can paddle an outrigger canoe to watch whales and dolphins on the move or hike through the largest field of petroglyphs in the Pacific; and families can snorkel with Honu in their white sand lagoon or learn about Polynesian history in the Gathering of the Kings cultural show and luau. Naturally, we partook in all of the above.

 

For our last day on the Big Island, we decided to ascend to Hawaii's highest peak with the guides from Mauna Kea Summit Adventures (www.maunakea.com). This awe-inspiring 8-hour excursion takes you slowly up the world's tallest mountain, which measures 33,476 feet above its base on the floor of the Pacific Ocean. After stopping briefly at the visitor center to eat dinner and get acclimated, buses make the bumpy ride up Saddle Road to the snow-crested peak at 13,796 feet. Here, above 40% of Earth's atmosphere and 90% of the water vapor, surrounded by many of the world's leading astronomical observatories, we watched the sunset from above the clouds, wearing parkas and snuggling together for added warmth. Afterwards, we descended to an area near the visitor center, where impeccable views of the night sky made for an exceptional stargazing experience to end our amazing week in Hawaii.

 

By the end of the week, after driving nearly 500 miles and taking a half-dozen tours (including exploring the island's massive volcanic craters and lava fields from the air with Blue Hawaii Helicopters), our minds were swimming with a cornucopia of vivid memories, from the fresh tropical fruits we'd been served for breakfast our first morning at Holualoa Inn to the excellent couples massage we received at the Fairmont Orchid just before leaving for the airport. But even after three visits in the past four years, I'm fairly certain I've yet to experience the majority of the wonders Hawaii's Big Island has to offer.

 

Then again, there's always next year...

(originally appeared in INsite Magazine)