CARTAGENA, COLOMBIA- The *Real* Emerald City

THE REAL EMERALD CITY- CARTAGENA, COLOMBIA EMERGES AS ONE OF SOUTH AMERICA’S GREATEST UNDISCOVERED GEMS

By Bret Love

 

“There are three things we are known for,” explains our gregarious Colombian guide/translator, Jose Villa Rodriguez, during lunch as he holds up three fingers in front of his knowing smile. “Emeralds, coffee and beautiful women!” I don’t know much about the dazzling green gems patiently polished into stunning earrings, rings and necklaces in the quietly buzzing workroom at Joyeria Caribe—the city of Cartagena’s most esteemed jewelry manufacturers­– but I can certainly attest to the world-class quality of the latter two features.

 

My buddy DeMarco and I flew into Cartagena, knowing precious little about the city aside from what we could find on Wikipedia. The reasons for this seem to be twofold: For one, the Internet has not yet developed into quite the phenomenon in South America that it is in the United States and, perhaps consequently, American travelers have not yet discovered what an amazing city this historic portal to the South American continent truly is.

 

Properly known as Cartagena des Indias (to distinguish it from the Spanish city after which it was named), this bustling seaport on Colombia’s northern coast was founded in 1533 by Pedro de Heredia and quickly emerged as a major hub of commerce and transportation in the early Spanish settlement of the Americas. After legendary pirates such as Martín Cote and Francis Drake began to plunder the prosperous city, in the early 17^th century the Spanish crown approved the construction of numerous fortresses and approximately 11km of walls surrounding Cartagena. Beginning in 1606, the construction took over 200 years, and the impressive results were named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984 and remain among Cartagena’s most impressive sights.

 

But the truth is, the entire city is practically bursting with history, as we realized almost immediately after our arrival at La Passion, a stunning new boutique bed and breakfast set in a 19^th century Spanish mansion. Located in the heart of the Walled City just a few blocks from the Caribbean Sea, La Passion’s password-protected doors, intimacy (there are less than 10 guest rooms) and amenities such as breakfast served beside the gorgeous rooftop pool made it the perfect headquarters for our explorations, with almost every historically significant landmark within walking distance.

 

Which proved to be a good thing, as the narrow streets are often too congested for even the tiny local taxis to proceed at more than a snail’s pace. As we strolled along, vendors hawking everything from jewelry and artwork to T-shirts and sunglasses, street mimes looking to make a quick buck, fruit and vegetable carts, students hanging out between classes at the local university and the aforementioned beautiful women all vied for our attention, as strains of cumbia, champeta and salsa music streamed from the surrounding shops. But it’s the gorgeous republican, Italian and colonial-style architecture of the Old City’s buildings that truly make it a wonder to behold.

 

From simple homes to grand cathedrals, virtually every building in the area is worthy of a picture postcard.  There’s Teatro Heredia (Heredia Theater), a majestic edifice whose posh interior hosts a variety of concerts and cultural events; Puerta del Reloj (Clock Gate), the official entrance to the downtown Cartagena area, which opens out onto the bustling marketplace of Plaza de los Coches (Square of the Carriages); San Pedro Claver Church, where a priest conducts evening mass while young children feed vast flocks of pigeons in the sculpture-filled square outside; Plaza de Bolivar, where horse-drawn carriages line up in front of a 16^th century cathedral; the restored Santa Domingo Church, whose plaza features the sculpture Mujer Reclinada ("Reclining Woman"), a gift from renowned Colombian artist Fernando Botero; and too many others to mention.

 

Needless to say, by the time we made our way to El Santísimo, a nuevo-Caribbean restaurant featuring innovative cuisine served up in a tropical courtyard lined with folk art, Colombia’s intense heat and humidity had combined with a long day of travel and walking to render us completely exhausted. After hungrily scarfing down a scrumptious dinner of salad, fresh seafood and coconut rice (both of which are local specialties), we were too exhausted to even consider exploring Cartagena’s notoriously bustling nightlife scene, so we headed back to La Passion to sleep like the dead.

 

The next morning we were up at dawn for another long day of activities, starting off with a tour of San Felipe de Barajas castle, which was named for King Philip IV. A major trading port for precious metals and slaves, Cartagena was seen as a prize jewel in the Spanish crown, and as we explored the fort Jose recounted grand tales of the illustrious Battle of Cartagena, in which the Spaniards used the sentry boxes, underground tunnels and massive cannons to repel attacks by more than 23,000 British troops.

 

From there it was off to the Inquisition Palace, which has been turned into a museum featuring all of the original features it had when it was built in 1770. From a stretching rack and stockade to a guillotine and hanging platform, the museum is a haunting reminder of the Spanish Inquisition’s fearsome presence in the region from 1610 up until Cartagena’s independence in 1811.

 

Just down the street lies El Museo del Oro Zenú (Zenú Gold Museum), which charts the pre-Colombian history of the region’s original inhabitants, who first settled in Colombia over 11,000 years ago. Filled with pottery, musical instruments, textiles and the intricately filigreed gold jewelry for which the Zenú were known, the museum also pays tribute to their remarkably innovative agricultural developments, which included ingenious waterway systems designed to control drainage and irrigation. And don’t miss the excellent museum shop next door, Galeria Cano, where collectors can find upscale Colombian art created by local craftsmen.

 

After another delicious lunch during which we guzzled down glasses of chorozo (which tastes like a sweet cranberry) and pineapple juice, we headed up to visit Convento de la Popa, a 400-year-old monastery sitting on a hill 500 feet over Cartagena. Locals walk up the steep hill every morning, past 14 crosses representing the stations of the passion, for mass in the monastery’s 21k gold-laden chapel. Making our way through the tranquil inner courtyard, we found ourselves in front of a statue of the Virgin of Cadelaria, who is credited with delivering the city from the ravages of disease and pirates. The spectacular 360º views of the city and Cartagena Bay alone make La Popa an absolute must-see.

 

As the sun began to set, we made our way to the Plaza de la Aduana (Customs Square) for a sizzling performance by Mapale troupe Afro Columbia, whose pounding tribal rhythms, infectious melodies, colorful costumes and dazzling African-influenced dance moves attracted a massive crowd unaccustomed to seeing these local cultural treasures playing outside of upscale venues like Teatro Heredia. From there it was on to dinner at Club de Pesca, a seaside restaurant where a sultry latin jazz ensemble, strong drinks, fresh fish and great company (courtesy of Jose and our Contactos guide, Esmerelda Martínez) made for an enjoyable end to our extraordinarily full day.

 

Our last day in Colombia was our favorite, as we left bright and early for a visit to the Rosario Islands. Making a brief stop at Bocachica’s San Fernando Fort, strategically placed at the entrance to the bay, we made our way our to Majagua Island, a beautifully unspoiled tropical paradise located 30 minutes off the coast of Cartagena. The small San Pedro de Majagua hotel (where we swore to stay next time) was practically deserted, with two white sand beaches and plenty of hammocks to provide the feeling you were far from civilization.

 

Our tour included the option of visiting an aquarium, going scuba diving or snorkeling, so we chose the latter option, venturing to an even smaller island, Isla Pavito, with an even smaller resort. Donning masks and flippers, we set out from the rocky beach to find a manmade reef of sunken barrels swarming with tropical fish a mere 20 yards away. Further out, natural coral attracted brilliantly colored parrotfish, puffers and angelfish by the dozens, with water so warm and crystal clear you could see every detail.

 

Later that night we returned to town to view a different sort of wildlife at Mr. Babilla’s Restaurant & Discoteque. Legendary on the local scene, this nightclub was deserted when we arrived for dinner at 9PM, but by the time we’d graduated to drinks it was becoming increasingly packed, and by midnight there were literally people dancing on the tables.

 

There are a lot of misconceptions about Colombia lingering from its days as one of the world’s coca capitals, but Cartagena is a wondrous historical city that deserves all the tourist accolades showered upon European counterparts such as Venice or Prague. The emeralds and the coffee were certainly everything Jose promised, but it’s the people and the culture that make it a true undiscovered gem.

 

CARTAGENA CONTACTS

 

Contactos- Services a wide variety of tourism needs. (575) 665-1300, www.contactos.com.co.

 

Jose Villa Rodriguez- Private tourist guide/translator. (311)438-3458, josevillarodriguez@yahoo.com.

 

Expreso Brasilia- Offers bus tours between Cartagena, Barranquilla and Santa Mara. www.expresobrasilia.com.

 

La Passion- Intimate bed & breakfast in the heart of downtown Cartagena. (575) 664-8605, www.lapassionhotel.com.

 

Sofitel Santa Clara- Gorgeous modern hotel in the former Santa Clara de Asis Convent. (575) 650-4700, www.sofitel.com.

 

Hotel San Pedro de Majagua- Like your own private island paradise. (575) 664-6070, www.hotelmajagua.com.

 

Isla Pavito/Dolphin Dive School- The ultimate remote Colombian getaway. (575) 664-0814, www.dolphindiveschool.com.

(originally appeared in Spirit Airlines' Skylights)

HAWAII: Little Island, Big Fun

LITTLE ISLAND, BIG FUN

WHY HAWAI'I'S "BIG ISLAND" MORE THAN LIVES UP TO ITS NAME

by Bret Love

 

With a total area of 4,028 square miles– less than one-tenth the size of Georgia (59,424 square miles)– the island of Hawaii's nickname, "The Big Island," would appear to be something of a misnomer. After all, you can drive around the island's circumference from the rainy east coast city of Hilo to its sunny west coast counterpart, Kailua-Kona, in less than two hours. But what the Big Island lacks in geographical size it more than makes up for in ecological diversity, boasting 11 different ecosystems that includes the snow-capped summit of the tallest mountain in the world, an arid desert, humid tropical jungles, postcard-worthy beaches, and the world's most active volcano.

 

We began our Hawaiian adventure in the tiny hillside town of Holualoa. Though it's just a short drive from the hustle and bustle of Kailua-Kona, our stay at the quaint Holualoa Inn (www.holualoainn.com) felt far removed from the trappings of civilization. We actually had to slow our rental car to avoid hitting a wild boar crossing the road, and our pastoral stroll through the B&B's well-tended tropical gardens and coffee farm was interrupted only by various birds and mongooses in search of their morning meal. Yet its location made Holualoa Inn a perfectly tranquil base from which to explore the nearby coast.

 

Our trip got off to a rousing start when we embarked upon Captain Zodiac's Raft, Snorkel & Dolphin Adventure (www.captainzodiac.com). Leaving from Kona's Honokohau Marina, the 4-hour trek takes visitors to Kealakekua Bay, the site where Captain Cook landed upon first discovering Hawai'i (and also the site upon which he was later killed during a dispute with the natives). But the excitement began long before we even got there, with the sightings of a breaching humpback whale with young calf in tow and a massive school of hammerhead sharks swimming in search of sustenance. The bay seemed tame by comparison, with its natural harbor providing a buffer from the Big Island's pounding surf and allowing amazing opportunities to snorkel with Honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles) and a cornucopia of tropical fish.

 

On the way back we stopped at Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park (www.nps.gov/archive/puho/home.htm), a place of refuge where, until the early 19th century, Hawaiians who broke one of the ancient laws against the gods, defeated warriors and non-combatants alike could come to find safe haven. The 420-acre complex of archaeological sites was once home to several generations of powerful chiefs, and now includes temple platforms, royal fish ponds, coastal village sites and a reconstructed version of the original sacred temple.

 

The second leg of our trip found us cutting across the island to visit Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park (www.nps.gov/havo), which was designated an International Biosphere Reserve in 1980 and a World Heritage Site in 1987. The park, which encompasses both the world's most massive volcano (Mauna Loa) and its most active (Kilauea, which has been erupting continuously since 1983), had changed considerably since my previous visit in 2006. Then, my team visited the Halema'uma'u crater, traditionally considered the sacred home of the volcano goddess Pele, where we left an offering only to be blessed with a rare double rainbow as rain pelted us from the rear and sun warmed us from the front. But in 2008 a volcanic explosion damaged the overlook on which we'd once stood and covered part of Crater Rim drive, hinting that perhaps Pele had had enough visitors for the time being. Still, we had a great time hiking through the Thurston Lava Tube, learning about the park at the Visitor Center, and browsing for traditional and modern art gallery at the Volcano Art Center (www.volcanoartcenter.org).

 

Drenched by a torrential downpour, we eagerly made our way to the Kapoho coast, where sun-soaked sanctuary awaited in the form of our residence for the next two days, Shangri-La (www.paradisedarling.com). An amazing rental property featuring four Bali-style cottages, an outdoor shower and hot tub, and a private lagoon surrounded by palm trees and stocked with thousands of fish, Shangri-La is the sort of heavenly haven that will leave you canceling plans just so you can immerse yourself in its serene splendor for a few more hours.

 

Unfortunately, duty called, so the next morning we set out for a sunrise boat tour with Lava Ocean Adventures (www.lavaocean.com). Launching before the sun had crested the horizon– when wind, weather and swell conditions are at their best– we set off down the Kalapana coastline towards a massive plume of billowing smoke. There, radiating intense heat, we found the spot where glowing streams of fiery magma flow from Kilauea all the way to the Pacific, creating a black beach of lava that has gradually expanded the Big Island's land mass by over 500 acres in the last 25 years.

 

Returning to Shangri-La after a stomach-churning boat ride that left us delighted to be back on terra firma, we were sad to bid a final farewell to Kapoho, but excited to head north to the island's Kohala coast to close out our Hawaiian holiday with a visit to the 32-acre Fairmont Orchid (www.fairmont.com/orchid). This 5-star resort offers something for everyone: Luxury lovers can play golf, savor impeccable cuisine and indulge in a relaxing treatment at the Spa WIthout Walls (all of which are administered in either a tropical garden surrounded by waterfalls or private beach-side tents); adventurous types can paddle an outrigger canoe to watch whales and dolphins on the move or hike through the largest field of petroglyphs in the Pacific; and families can snorkel with Honu in their white sand lagoon or learn about Polynesian history in the Gathering of the Kings cultural show and luau. Naturally, we partook in all of the above.

 

For our last day on the Big Island, we decided to ascend to Hawaii's highest peak with the guides from Mauna Kea Summit Adventures (www.maunakea.com). This awe-inspiring 8-hour excursion takes you slowly up the world's tallest mountain, which measures 33,476 feet above its base on the floor of the Pacific Ocean. After stopping briefly at the visitor center to eat dinner and get acclimated, buses make the bumpy ride up Saddle Road to the snow-crested peak at 13,796 feet. Here, above 40% of Earth's atmosphere and 90% of the water vapor, surrounded by many of the world's leading astronomical observatories, we watched the sunset from above the clouds, wearing parkas and snuggling together for added warmth. Afterwards, we descended to an area near the visitor center, where impeccable views of the night sky made for an exceptional stargazing experience to end our amazing week in Hawaii.

 

By the end of the week, after driving nearly 500 miles and taking a half-dozen tours (including exploring the island's massive volcanic craters and lava fields from the air with Blue Hawaii Helicopters), our minds were swimming with a cornucopia of vivid memories, from the fresh tropical fruits we'd been served for breakfast our first morning at Holualoa Inn to the excellent couples massage we received at the Fairmont Orchid just before leaving for the airport. But even after three visits in the past four years, I'm fairly certain I've yet to experience the majority of the wonders Hawaii's Big Island has to offer.

 

Then again, there's always next year...

(originally appeared in INsite Magazine)

BACK TO NATURE- Enota Mountain Retreat, North GA's Best-Kept Secret

ENOTA MOUNTAIN RETREAT

1000 Hwy 180

Hiawasseee, GA 30546

Website: www.enota.com

Ph: 1-800-990-8869

 

North Georgia has nearly 25 state parks offering camping and various other outdoor recreation activities, but there’s none quite like Hiawassee’s Enota Mountain Retreat. A privately-owned property tucked away in the Chattahoochee National Forest just minutes from Brasstown Bald and Helen, Enota features over 60 acres of protected land that includes cabins and campgrounds, four waterfalls, two trout ponds, a working organic farm and more, with a focus on environmental conservation and sustainability.

 

Originally the site of a Cherokee village, the land on which Enota lies was taken by the U.S. government during the north Georgia gold rush of the early 1830s, when the surrounding region was producing over 300 ounces a day. The property was eventually sold to a family who homesteaded there for 60 years before selling it to the YMCA in the 1940s, when it was turned into a popular boys’ camp called Camp Pioneer. The land, which has never had any pesticides or chemicals put on it, was put into Trust in 1998, and has been run as a non-profit volunteer organization centered on education and conservation ever since.

 

“We really wanted to preserve the land so it wouldn’t be developed into a gated community and would be kept in its pristine state as a historical site,” says co-founder Swan Freed, who left behind her former life as a chiropractor in Atlanta in order to oversee Enota’s operations.

 

One of the primary differences between Enota and every other campsite in the state is its focus on organic farming, with several acres dedicated to raising livestock and several more devoted to growing various herbs and vegetables. Visitors are given daily opportunities to milk a cow or goat, collect fresh eggs from the henhouse and, depending on the time of year, plant or pick produce. In the summertime, Freed estimates that 80% of the foods served in Enota’s restaurant are harvested on the farm, from the eggs and milk served at breakfast to all the vegetables in their salads. Catch your own fish in their two fully stocked trout ponds and you’ll have farm-to-table freshness at its finest.

 

“For the benefit of humanity in general we need to look at sustainability practices,” Freed insists. “Every human being should know where their food comes from, and Enota allows people to have hands-on experience in organic farming. We’re one of the only fully functioning farms in the state of Georgia where people can come and stay.”

 

As much as adults may enjoy Enota for the natural beauty resulting from its continued environmental conservation efforts, children seem to have even more fun there. From splashing in streams and hiking wildflower-laden paths to waterfalls to petting farm animals and bouncing on in-ground trampolines, their amenities offer something for the kid in everyone. It’s this dichotomous appeal that has made Enota a favorite among campers such as Abbigail Bauer, a 29-year-old mother of two from Dacula who has visited three times since discovering the retreat via a quick Internet search in early 2008.

 

“Enota’s kid-friendly features are numerous,” Bauer says, “and my daughters always love petting the animals and jumping on the trampolines. But I also love the fact that you can separate yourself from the family sites if you go without kids and want some peace and quiet. Enota is hidden, and even though there’s other people around you can always escape, walking for miles without seeing another living soul.”

 

As its name would imply, Enota Mountain Retreat is much more than simply a family-friendly weekend getaway. Their facilities are frequently used for church retreats, work conferences and workshops, with accommodations for more than 200 people including 10 cabins with kitchenettes, 33 rooms, four bunkhouses, 35 full hookup RV sites, 10 water and electric only sites, a newly remodeled bath house, and over 100 tent spaces. Their lodge features a gift shop and small supplies store as well as a full commercial kitchen and dining room, while their expansive pavilion will hold up to 500 people and features its own outdoor kitchen.

 

But while Enota’s amenities may make it a popular retreat for large organizations, perhaps the retreat’s greatest gift is the peacefulness and serenity it provides for those individuals seeking a break from the hustle and bustle of the grueling 9 to 5 life. Whether you prefer tooling around in their garden, holding baby goats and chickens, hiking pastoral trails to the top of the 200-foot-tall Gurley Falls and Big Joel Falls, savoring one of their 90-minute spa services, or participating in Reverend LaKotahasie Frazier’s weekend-long Native American ceremonial gatherings and sweat lodges, Enota’s remote location and emphasis on environmental preservation makes it feel much like a world unto itself. A world in which most cell phones get no reception, laptop computers seem entirely unnecessary, and whatever is on television is nowhere near as compelling as what’s going on right outside your tent, RV or cabin.

 

If you ask Freed, Enota Mountain Retreat is the perfect antidote to the stress of modern living, offering visitors a chance to relax and recharge. “I think people in general are longing to feel connected and get back to the simple things in life,” she says. “People are profoundly interested in having more personal experiences with nature, because it helps them discover things about themselves that they didn’t know when they got here.” –BRET LOVE

 

 

OLD WORLD OTP- Vingenzo's Pasta & Pizzeria Review

Vingenzo’s Pasta & Pizzeria

105 East Main St, Woodstock

770-924-9133

www.vingenzos.com

 

Ask anyone who lives outside the perimeter and they’ll tell you that finding a great new culinary haven in the land of strip malls and chain restaurants is like the Holy Grail for foodies. So it was with much anticipation that we visited this charming little restaurant in downtown Woodstock on the strength of a friend’s recommendation, and with great pleasure that we discovered it was every bit as good as we’d been told.

 

Co-owned by Chef Michael Bologna (who teaches aspiring chefs at a local college by day), Vingenzo’s is the New York native’s tribute to the sort of old-world Neapolitan cuisine he grew up on, featuring recipes handed down through generations. The atmosphere is a welcoming blend of classy and casual, appealing to romantic couples and feasting families alike. Bologna prides himself on making everything from scratch, from three different kinds of mozzarella to pizza dough and pasta, and uses locally grown ingredients whenever possible (including heirloom tomatoes, which were delivered by a farmer as we dined).

 

Vingenzo’s menu may not seem exciting on the surface; anyone who’s ever had Italian food will recognize traditional dishes such as Margharita pizza and Frutti Di Mare. But what separates Bologna’s food from other Italian restaurants is his dedication to freshness and craftsmanship. Pizzas such as the Sopressata and the Bianca Con Prosciutto e Fontina, baked according to Neapolitan tradition in a wood-burning oven at 900º, offer a robust commingling of textures and flavors. Pastas such as Gnocchi al Gorgonzola and Campagnola offer a perfect balance of ingredients, from the spinach and Gorgonzola of the former to the artichoke hearts, cherry tomatoes and mushrooms of the latter. His desserts, including Pistachio gelato and Torta di Ricotta (ricotta cheesecake), are equally impressive.

 

In short, Vingenzo’s is the sort of surprising discovery that makes being a food critic so rewarding. Not only do I get to share a rare gem of a restaurant, but now I also have a local favorite for my own family. –BRET LOVE

WEEKEND GETAWAY- Barnsley Gardens Resort

TRAGIC LOVE

THE HAUNTED HISTORY OF BARNSLEY GARDENS

by Bret Love

Barnsley Gardens Resort

597 Barnsley Gardens Road
Adairsville, GA 30103
770.773.7480 or 877.773.2447

www.barnsleyresort.com

There’s an eerie air to the ruins at Barnsley Gardens at night. Even if it weren’t for the dim light that guides our way through the maze of English boxwoods in the formal garden, the wind rushing through ancient imported trees or the imposing frame of the once-stunning Italian style manor that looms before us, there’s still the estate’s 160-year history, which begins with a love story as tragic as anything Shakespeare ever concocted.

 

As told by resident historian and museum director Clent Coker, the Barnsley saga is a Southern epic practically begging for Hollywood adaptation. In the 1840s, English cotton baron Godfrey Barnsley purchased 8,000 acres of former Cherokee land in Bartow County (about 40 minutes north of the perimeter, in the rolling foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains), on which he planned to build a magnificent estate for his beloved wife Julia, a shipping heiress from Savannah. But she succumbed to consumption before construction was completed, dying mere hours before her husband returned from New Orleans. The grief-stricken Barnsley abandoned his dream for a year until, according to legend, Julia’s ghost appeared to him in the gardens and instructed him to finish work on the manor for their six children.

 

Godfrey forged on, only to lose his vast fortune in the Civil War, when Union soldiers ransacked the estate and stole more than $150,000 in valuables (which would be worth millions today). After he returned to New Orleans and unsuccessfully attempted to rebuild his wealth, daughter Julia– said to be the inspiration for author Margaret Mitchell’s Scarlet O’Hara– struggled to rebuild the property. In 1906 a tornado blew the roof off of the home, forcing the nearly destitute family to move into the kitchen wing, and in 1935 one of Godfrey’s great-grandsons murdered his brother in a dispute over control of the property. Seven years later, the estate was sold at auction, and eventually fell into ruin due to owner neglect.

 

The property’s return to glory began in 1988, when Prince Hubertus Fugger of Bavaria purchased the 1300 acres of land on which it resides. Told of the estate’s rich past by Mr. Coker, whose family’s connection to the Barnsleys stretched back over 100 years (and who owns dozens of the historical artifacts now housed in the Barnsley Museum), the Prince and his wife began restoring the gardens, opening them to the public in 1992. A few years later, the Fuggers decided to build a resort that would recreate an authentic 19th-century pedestrian village in which guests would feel as if they were visiting a true country estate. Now owned by a team of private investors, the result is like nothing I’d ever seen, transporting guests into a seemingly time-warped alternate reality that seems both historic and strangely modern at the same time.

 

Our Barnsley Gardens experience began before we even checked in, with a visit to their European style spa. Like all 45 buildings on the estate, the spa’s architecture was based on the principles of Andrew Jackson Downing, the original designer of The White House grounds and the Washington Mall, whose belief that manmade elements should fit naturally into their surroundings inspired Godfrey Barnsley greatly. But inside the services are decidedly 21^st century, with a broad range of facial and body treatments, massage treatments and salon services; complimentary steam, sauna and whirlpool; as well as a variety of customizable packages designed to deliver hours of pampering. A 50 minute couples massage worked wonders for rubbing away the stress of our busy work week, and we eagerly drove from Registration to our Manor Cottage suite to enjoy the other fruits of our romantic “Couples Retreat” weekend.

 

The cottages themselves are remarkable: It’s easy to see why Barnsley Gardens has received accolades such as Travel & Leisure’s “500 World’s Best Hotels,” Condé Nast’s “Top 75 North American Resorts,” and Zagat Survey’s “Top 50 Small Hotels in the U.S.” The English-style garden was immaculate even in the middle of winter, and the rustic rocking chairs on the front porch were perfectly in-tune with the resort’s laid-back country vibe. Opening the barn-wood door, we were wowed by an interior filled with homey antiques, a stone-hearth fireplace and wet bar, where a chilled bottle of champagne awaited us. The high-ceiling bedroom featured an antique king sized bed, while the ample bathroom featured a massive marble-tiled shower and a claw-footed bathtub.

 

Later that night we made our way along the village’s tree-lined walkways to the Woodlands Grill, a lodge-like steakhouse, where we struggled to determine whether the lightly fried lobster tail with horseradish sauce, gargantuan jumbo shrimp over lobster risotto, or perfectly cooked filet mignon is more delicious. Our meal the next night in the Rice House, which offers an epicurean spin on classic Southern cuisine, was equally divine. The Grill offers a buffet breakfast we heard rave reviews about (though we elected to stay in and have room service), and there’s also a seasonal German-style beer garden featuring light snacks, beer and wine in an outdoor setting centered around a roaring open-pit fire.

 

For those seeking an active vacation, Barnsley Gardens features a broad range of outdoor activities ranging from horseback riding, cycling and paintball to hiking, fishing and canoeing on their 10-acre lake. The on-site Orvis Pro Shop offers private shooting and fly-casting instruction, as well as a sporting clay course, while garden-variety sports enthusiasts can play croquet, bocce ball or badminton in the picturesque Town Square. For links addicts, Barnsley also offers one of the state’s top-ranked championship golf courses, Jim Fazio-designed par 72 layout known as The General.

 

In short, there are a million things to do in this unusual, world-class resort. But with its luxurious cottages, top-notch amenities and attentive service, the truth is that you can have a memorable time simply by embracing the distinctively Southern serenity of Godfrey Barnsley’s love-inspired dream.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SUBURBAN SWANK- Hi Life Kitchen & Cocktails Review

HI LIFE KITCHEN & COCKTAILS

3380 Holcomb Bridge Rd, Norcross

770-409-0101

www.hiliferestaurant.com

 

Once a shining beacon on the Gwinnett restaurant scene, Hi Life had seen a gradual decline in quality in recent years as its original owners– the proprietors behind the wildly successful Marlowe’s Tavern– focused on other ventures. Now, under the leadership of owner/Executive Chef Gregg Zeringue, the upscale restaurant has re-emerged as a haven for OTP foodies.

 

Don’t let its strip shopping center location fool you: Beyond the neon sign and chain restaurant canopies, you’ll find a warm, romantic interior. Cobalt blue lamps hang over cozy booths and polished wood accents, while mellow music (live jazz some weekends) ensures that the buzzing bar area rarely rises to a cacophonous din.

 

Zeringue’s menu puts an emphasis on New American cuisine with a dash of creative fusion. Appetizer standbys such as calamari are reinvented with the addition of a sweet chili glaze, while tandoori beef satays with cucumber crème fraiche and truffled tuna tempura with curry yogurt sauce add a bit of exotic spice. Every entrée we tried– from sesame seabass with jasmine rice to seared jumbo scallops with wasabi whipped potatoes, from fontini ravioli with lobster and asparagus to truffle honey glazed rack of lamb with roast fingerling potato- was exceptional. 

With an expansive wine list, full bar, and desserts and specials that change daily, Gregg Zeringue and company have finally restored Hi Life to its former glory. –BRET LOVE  

THE FOOD FEUD- My INC Street Food Review

THE FOOD FEUD

By bringing Latin American Street Food Inside, Roswell’s INC Combines the Best of Both Worlds

By Bret Love

 

INC Street Food

948 Canton St, Roswell

770.998.3114

www.incstreetfood.com

 

Although you don’t often see it in Atlanta, in some American cities there are budding feuds between food trucks and brick-and-mortar restaurants.  These mobile eateries serve up street food fare fast, and at prices the rent-paying restaurants can ill afford to match.  The battle has gotten so bad along L.A.’s Miracle Mile (where some owners estimate food trucks have cut their sales by 20%) that the restaurants recently enlisted help from a city councilman to outlaw these portable proprietors.

 

Hicham Azhari, Fikret Kovac and Executive Chef Richard Wilt– the team behind Roswell’s dearly missed Little Alley and the always-busy Salt Factory– sagely recognized how the economic downturn was impacting the way people dine out.  Their latest venture, INC Street Food, is the best of both worlds, offering up robust Latin American street food in a hip atmosphere at recession-friendly prices.

 

The interior design quite literally brings the street inside, with vivid graffiti lining seemingly age-worn walls, rustically painted tables and sturdy industrial-style light fixtures.  The open kitchen is cleverly designed to look like a food truck, complete with metal sides, a license plate and a ladder on the back.  Lively Latin music pulses through the speaker; the bustling bar attracts a colorful, multi-racial crowd; and the waiters are dressed in jeans, baseball Ts and shoulder bags reminiscent of young street vendors.  It’s all very casual and cool, the kind of jumping joint you’d see on a weekend night in urban Brazil or Colombia.

 

“All the Mexican restaurants in Atlanta are basically the same,” says Azhari when asked about the inspiration behind his new venture.  “I can recite their menus by heart. But the real food of Latin America needs to be discovered.”

 

To that end, Wilt has crafted a diverse menu drawing on traditional influences spanning Central and South America.  Posole– corn soaked in limewater and lightly fried to tangy, crunchy perfection– is brought to the table as a unique alternative to chips and salsa, providing perfect accompaniment to the sweetness of the INC Margarita, which comes with a Chambord Raspberry liqueur floater.  The Bocaditos (or “starters”) are universally excellent, from the Argentinian Style Empanadas and Gaucho Marinated Skirt Steak Skewers to Salvadoran Chicken Pupusa and steamed Pork Tamales.  At under $10 each, they could easily be combined for a shared tapas-style meal.

 

Their tacos (served with arroz Mexicano and black beans) are a world away from what you’d expect at a typical Mexican joint, stuffed with everything from Chili-Rubbed Skirt Steak and Seared Ahi Tuna to BBQ Octopus and melt-in-your-mouth Veal Cheek. You can also get more substantial entrees such as Brazilian Style Fish Stew, which has a delicately spicy coconut milk broth, and Pollo Con Poblano Salsa Gratinados, a roasted half-chicken served with chili potatoes, poblano and queso.

 

The kitchen had not yet started serving desserts when we visited during INC’s opening week, but their Aguas Frescas (including authentic Coconut water and rice and cinnamon-infused Horchata) offered a refreshing end to our meal. All in all there were surprisingly few kinks left to be ironed out, foreshadowing a bright future for INC Street Food on the burgeoning Roswell restaurant scene.

(originally appeared in Jezebel)