Showing posts with label Best of Atlanta. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Best of Atlanta. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

THE FOOD FEUD- My INC Street Food Review















THE FOOD FEUD

By bringing Latin American Street Food Inside, Roswell’s INC Combines the Best of Both Worlds

By Bret Love

 

INC Street Food

948 Canton St, Roswell

770.998.3114

www.incstreetfood.com

 

Although you don’t often see it in Atlanta, in some American cities there are budding feuds between food trucks and brick-and-mortar restaurants.  These mobile eateries serve up street food fare fast, and at prices the rent-paying restaurants can ill afford to match.  The battle has gotten so bad along L.A.’s Miracle Mile (where some owners estimate food trucks have cut their sales by 20%) that the restaurants recently enlisted help from a city councilman to outlaw these portable proprietors.

 

Hicham Azhari, Fikret Kovac and Executive Chef Richard Wilt– the team behind Roswell’s dearly missed Little Alley and the always-busy Salt Factory– sagely recognized how the economic downturn was impacting the way people dine out.  Their latest venture, INC Street Food, is the best of both worlds, offering up robust Latin American street food in a hip atmosphere at recession-friendly prices.

 

The interior design quite literally brings the street inside, with vivid graffiti lining seemingly age-worn walls, rustically painted tables and sturdy industrial-style light fixtures.  The open kitchen is cleverly designed to look like a food truck, complete with metal sides, a license plate and a ladder on the back.  Lively Latin music pulses through the speaker; the bustling bar attracts a colorful, multi-racial crowd; and the waiters are dressed in jeans, baseball Ts and shoulder bags reminiscent of young street vendors.  It’s all very casual and cool, the kind of jumping joint you’d see on a weekend night in urban Brazil or Colombia.

 

“All the Mexican restaurants in Atlanta are basically the same,” says Azhari when asked about the inspiration behind his new venture.  “I can recite their menus by heart. But the real food of Latin America needs to be discovered.”

 

To that end, Wilt has crafted a diverse menu drawing on traditional influences spanning Central and South America.  Posole– corn soaked in limewater and lightly fried to tangy, crunchy perfection– is brought to the table as a unique alternative to chips and salsa, providing perfect accompaniment to the sweetness of the INC Margarita, which comes with a Chambord Raspberry liqueur floater.  The Bocaditos (or “starters”) are universally excellent, from the Argentinian Style Empanadas and Gaucho Marinated Skirt Steak Skewers to Salvadoran Chicken Pupusa and steamed Pork Tamales.  At under $10 each, they could easily be combined for a shared tapas-style meal.

 

Their tacos (served with arroz Mexicano and black beans) are a world away from what you’d expect at a typical Mexican joint, stuffed with everything from Chili-Rubbed Skirt Steak and Seared Ahi Tuna to BBQ Octopus and melt-in-your-mouth Veal Cheek. You can also get more substantial entrees such as Brazilian Style Fish Stew, which has a delicately spicy coconut milk broth, and Pollo Con Poblano Salsa Gratinados, a roasted half-chicken served with chili potatoes, poblano and queso.

 

The kitchen had not yet started serving desserts when we visited during INC’s opening week, but their Aguas Frescas (including authentic Coconut water and rice and cinnamon-infused Horchata) offered a refreshing end to our meal. All in all there were surprisingly few kinks left to be ironed out, foreshadowing a bright future for INC Street Food on the burgeoning Roswell restaurant scene.


(originally appeared in Jezebel)

 

 

 

Friday, February 19, 2010

QUEST FOR PERFECTION- My Interview w/Jeffrey Varasano














PIE IN THE SKY- JEFFREY VARASANO’S QUEST TO CREATE THE PERFECT PIZZA

By Bret Love

 

Growing up in the Bronx, Jeffrey Varasano loved watching his grandmother make traditional Italian fare. As an adult working as a computer programmer, he craved the New York-style pizza he’d grown up on, and embarked upon a Quixotic quest to craft the perfect recipe. The result was a 22,000-word manifesto that ultimately went viral, making him an Internet star and the subject of profiles in the New York Times and on NPR. Last March he opened his first restaurant, Varasano’s Pizzeria, which earned rave reviews. Here, he opens up about his pizza obsession, the elements of a great pie, and why he hopes his software days are behind him for good.

 

 

When and why did you first become obsessed with pizza?

 

The minute I moved to Atlanta, I started suffering from pizza withdrawal. I tried zillions of local places, but nothing was like the pizza I grew up with. I discovered that sprinkled among the 2000 corner shops in NYC there were 7 or 8 making really superior old school pizza, and I became fascinated with Patsy's Pizza in Harlem. It was founded in 1933, and the first time I went it looked like it was closed down. But when I tasted the pizza it blew me away. It was unlike anything I'd ever eaten, and I was hooked.

 

What do you consider the essential elements of a great pizza?

 

The primary thing is that the pizza must be memorable. There's no one style that's THE best. Coal fired or wood fired, Neapolitan style or New Haven style… any of these can be amazing or horrible. Having said that, they do have things in common. Most great pizza is baked in a very hot oven for a short time, slightly crispy on the outside but light and airy inside. The sauce should be very simple, just crushed tomatoes with a little seasoning.

 

How did your pizza recipe develop into such an Internet phenomenon?

 

I think I just struck a chord. People are very passionate about food, and pizza is one of the most popular foods, yet it's really hard to do right. When I started my research nearly every recipe was the same. It seemed like there was an exclusive club of great pizza makers, and no one running the chains or publishing recipes really knew what they were doing. Meanwhile there are zillions of people who have sampled great pizza before, but can't get it where they live. My site is not a simple set of instructions, but really delves into the artistry involved. For people who've been looking for a long time, finding my site is like the culmination of a quest. I've had several restaurant patrons actually cry because [the pizza] brought back memories of their childhood.

 

What convinced you it was finally time to open your own restaurant? 

 

The timing was perfect. A long software project was ending with me in burnout, and the pizza website went viral. I started to get literally thousands of letters, and that's when I knew I could build a business out of it.

 

What have been the biggest challenges and rewards thus far?

 

There are challenges in all areas, such as the construction taking longer than it should, financing, marketing and hiring. But the biggest challenge has been dough consistency. The tiniest change in timing, temperature or moisture can radically alter the dough. We've had whole batches ruined, and it takes a day or more to fix.  That's not fun when you have customers showing up whether the dough is right or not. The biggest reward is meeting lots of people. Compared to software engineering, which I did for 13 years, this is just plain fun!

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

WHO DAT?- Serpas True Food review










SERPAS

659 Auburn Ave, #501

404-688-0040

www.serpasrestaurant.com

 

Scott Serpas has long since proven his distinctive culinary vision in the Atlanta market, first working as sous chef under Kevin Rathbun at NAVA, then serving as Executive Chef at Sia’s and Mitra before earning rave reviews for his stylistic flair at TWO urban licks. So it wasn’t so much a question of whether the South Louisiana native would branch out with his own restaurant concept, but when and where.

 

The answer came last year with the launch of Serpas True Food in Studioplex, situated in the heart of the recently resurgent Old Fourth Ward district. Originally a cotton storage factory, the historic building’s blend of rustic tradition and ultra-modern design is a perfect match for the chef’s inventive menu, which blends Cajun classics with subtle Southwestern and Asian influences.

 

Start your meal with Fried Oysters: Served with pickled chiles and mirliton (a.k.a. chayote squash), they boast a perfectly piquant flavor that oozes over your taste buds. It’s in making such simple dishes into standouts that Serpas struts his stuff, whether it’s reinventing Pigs ‘n’ Blanket by stuffing them with andouille sausage and smoked mustard or prettying up Tuna Tartar by pairing it with green apples and chile sesame dressing. As for entrees, the Duck Breast with sweet potato puree and parsnips, Jumbo Sea Scallops with spaghetti squash and panang curry, and Beef Shortrib with potato celery gratin were all delightful examples of the keep-it-simple school of culinary thought.

 

Whatever you do, don’t leave without trying the White Chocolate Cranberry Bread Pudding, which will melt in your mouth with a lusciousness that will leave you begging for seconds, if not thirds.  –BRET LOVE

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

CULINARY ROCK STAR- Tom Colicchio's Craft















Craft

3376 Peachtree Rd

404-995-7580

www.craftrestaurant.com

 

Atlanta has attracted more than its fair share of celeb chefs, with everyone from Emeril and Wolgang Puck to Jean-Georges Vongerichten swooping in to set up shop. NYC’s Tom Colicchio is the latest to bring his culinary concoctions to the ATL, with Craft earning glowing reviews from critics and foodies alike.

 

It’s easy to see why people are buzzing: From the moment you walk in the doors of the dramatic two-story building, it’s clear that Craft is dressed to impress. From the wood-fired copper and steel grill and the bar made from solid walnut to the blackened steel and glass wine vault and hand-blown Tesla light bulbs, the restaurant reeks of sophistication. Yet the pervasive earth tones simultaneously give it a warm, relaxed atmosphere, with the attentive (yet unobtrusive) waitstaff timing every table visit perfectly.

 

In an era when too many chefs emphasize style over substance, Colicchio’s focus on fresh ingredients served without heavy sauces or overly fussy presentation is deceptively simple. We started with a sampling of delectable oysters, savoring the differences in flavor, before devouring an appetizer of hamachi (a.k.a. yellowtail) and pineapple in which the sweet tartness of the fruit provided a perfect complement to the subtlety of the fish. Choosing among chef de cuisine Kevin Maxey’s entrees proved difficult, but we ultimately settled on seared Diver Scallops served with a Mushroom Jus, Muscovy Duck Breast & Leg Confit that practically melts in your mouth and, my favorite, braised Beef Short Ribs served with Root Vegetables.

 

By the time we’d finished our dessert (Milk Chocolate Tart with Espresso-Cardamom Ice Cream), we were stuffed to the point of bursting, swearing to ourselves we’d return soon to sample more of Colicchio’s menu, which proves chefs don’t need a lot of flash if they’ve perfected their… um… Craft.  – BRET LOVE

Thursday, January 28, 2010

SOUTHERN COMFORT- Roswell's Relish















RELISH

590 Mimosa Blvd, Roswell GA 30075

770-650-7877

www.relishgoodfood.com

 

Opened in August 2007, this laid-back charmer is the latest from proprietor Andy Badgett, who originally made his name on the OTP restaurant scene with Asher. After that upscale eatery closed in 2003, Badgett went on to open the ever-popular Fickle Pickle before bringing in Executive Chef Ignacio Barquera (formerly of Van Gogh’s) to oversee the kitchen here. Proof that “upscale Southern cuisine” is not an oxymoron, Relish is  so cotton-pickin’ good that it’s made a fan of celeb chef Alton Brown.

 

The restaurant boasts a prime location overlooking Roswell’s historic square, with an expansive outdoor patio and warm, welcoming interior that includes two dining rooms and a Special Events room that can accommodate up to 60 people. Hardwood booths and tables work with splashes of green and cream to create a homey Southern vibe that encourages guests to set a spell (which may partially explain why theirs is one of North Atlanta’s most popular Sunday brunches). There's also a recently expanded bar area that buzzes with activity on weekend nights.

 

Of course, what keeps them coming back is Badgett’s inventive menu, which blends traditional Southern fare with some surprising modern twists. Cucumber lemonade makes a refreshing beverage (even better with Jack Daniels!), while unique appetizers such as Pimiento Cheese Fritters served with pepper jelly and Crispy Fried Oysters with green tomato tartar sauce are tasty enough to make a meal in their own right. Of course, then you’d miss out on excellent entrees such as the Crab Cake sandwich, Hickory Smoked Spare Ribs with Coca-Cola BBQ sauce and Shrimp & Grits with tasso gravy. And don’t dare leave without trying their Krispy Kreme Bread Pudding with espresso kreme, a sinfully delicious twist on coffee and donuts. –BRET LOVE


(Originally appeared in Atlanta Social Season)

HULA PARTY- Tongo Hiti at Trader Vic's






















Tongo Hiti at Trader Vic's
255 Courtland St NE
404-221-6339
www.tradervicsatlanta.com

Although we've been fans of post-modern Big Band Kingsized and hipster burlesque troupe Dames Aflame (which are produced and directed by the husband and wife team of Big Mike Geier and Shannon Newton) for years, it wasn't until New Year's Eve that we finally made our way to the basement of the downtown Atlanta Hilton to check out their tropically-themed Tongo Hiti show. The night hadn't even ended before we were planning a return visit.

For those who've never been to Trader Vic's (where the Mai Tai was originally created), the bar/restaurant plays like a luau as interpreted by a '50s flick starring Elvis Presley and Ann Margaret. Tikis, bamboo and Polynesian artwork abound; food is served by waitstaff in Hawaiian shirts; and drinks are delivered in massive receptacles designed to leave you drunker than a sorority girl at her first kegger. It all seems superficial at first glance, but a particularly potent Mai Tai or two will kick your snarky self to the curb in favor of a full-on embrace of the retro-cheezy silliness.

Kingsized/Tongo Hiti frontman Big Mike is undoubtedly the ringleader of this campy circus, his massive physique belying the cheeky impishness of a playful teen. The man is clearly having fun, commanding the evening's mood and driving the backing band's energy from mellow to downright manic. Sure, he'll serenade the ladies with all the schmoozy schmaltz of a younger Wayne Newton, but he'll also slow dance with a big, burly dude (that would be me) without dropping his suave persona for even a second. 

The music ranges from Don Ho lounge shtick to classic rock and pop, but it's all delivered with a sly, knowing wink, occasionally incorporating clever mash-ups into the mix. Through it all, the lovely Dames Aflame prove provocative eye candy, at times taking center stage to strut their stuff in rehearsed dance numbers (some of which echo surprisingly traditional Indian and Polynesian influences) and at other times merely shaking their tailfeathers beside the band. Which is good, because Big Mike and company have a way with whipping the crowded dance floor into a sweaty frenzy.

It's a masterfully orchestrated party, loose enough to kick back and go with the flow but never once letting the energy lag. So if you go, make sure you bring your dancing shoes, and be sure to buy Big Mike a drink. A man who works that hard to put on a show in bound to be unbearably thirsty.  –BRET LOVE

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

THAT'S ITALIAN!- Antico Pizza Napoletana











Antico Pizza Napoletana

1093 Hemphill Ave

404.724.2333

www.anticopizza.it

 

With the foodie feeding frenzy that’s gripped the ATL in recent years, where a new hotspot opens every week and you can’t swing a stick without hitting someone who’s appeared on Top Chef, it’s becoming increasingly difficult for new restauranteurs to distinguish themselves. After all, how do you stand out in a field overcrowded with culinary standouts? In the case of Giovanni Di Palma, you do it by swimming directly against the current, ignoring trends in favor of tradition.

 

Antico, his labor of love that opened in October to gushing reviews, is like no other 5-star restaurant in town. There’s no valet parking, no fancy interior design, not even a proper seating area to speak of. There are 12 non-dessert items on the menu– nine pizzas and three calzones– and you order at the counter. You can take it out or huddle around a rustic communal table originally intended for dough preparation. But despite the complete lack of bells and whistles Antico has emerged as Atlanta’s hottest new restaurant, and the reasons can be traced to Naples, Italy.

 

Five years ago Di Palma (who grew up in New York, the grandson of a life-long Pizzaiolo) made a pilgrimage to his ancestral Italian village to make a donation to preserve the ancient basilica in which his grandparents had gotten married. While there he was introduced to the owner of a local flour mill, who took Di Palma to the Centro Storia neighborhood’s legendary restaurant, Il Presidente Pizzeria, which has provided pies for everyone from Bill Clinton to the Pope. It was there that he learned to make Pizza Napoletana in the Verace Artigianale (True Artisan) style, hand-kneading dough crafted in small batches and adding nothing but sea salt and fresh water. He learned to cook them to a perfect char in Sorrento stone ovens heated to 900º by hardwood fires. Ask Di Palma the secret of his success and he confesses, “This pizza doesn’t belong to me, but to the craftsmen who created it. I’m just a messenger.”

 

That may be true, but the message he’s delivering tastes like the culmination of hundreds of years of culinary refinement. Antico is authentic to the extreme, adhering to strict guidelines: Di Palma imports flour, San Marzano tomatoes and fresh mozzarella di bufala from the Campania region of Italy every week, and cooks every pizza in 10,000 pound ovens hand-made in Naples. The result is a perfect balance of crispy and chewy, bursting with robust, earthy flavors. Whether you get the deceptively simple Margherita D.O.P. or the Cappricciosa, which is loaded with savory mushrooms, artichokes and prosciutto cotto, Di Palma’s passion for the craft comes through in every bite.

 

The gregarious Di Palma seems as surprised as anyone by the glowing reception his debut entrepreneurial effort has received, but Antico (which was originally takeout-only) is already planning to add family-style seating, an outdoor terrace and perhaps even a rooftop patio in the coming year. At an average price of $19 per pizza, it’s easily the most affordable trip to Italy your mouth will ever take. –BRET LOVE


(originally appeared in Jezebel)

 

THE PIXAR OF MUSIC- Atlanta's Dust-To-Digital














DUST TO DIGITAL

MOVING MUSIC FORWARD BY PLUMBING ITS PAST

 

To say that college radio DJ-turned-record label entrepreneur Lance Ledbetter is a throwback to a simpler time in music history would be a massive understatement. Though he may not venture out into the field and make his own recordings á la Alan Lomax, Ledbetter’s affinity for little known gospel, blues, bluegrass, country and folk music of the early 1900s has made him into the 21st century’s answer to Harry Smith. And his critically acclaimed, Atlanta-based boutique label, Dust To Digital, is now introducing old-time music to a whole new generation of fans.

 

Ledbetter traces his intense connection to music back to his teen years, long before exposure to Smith’s extremely influential American Anthology of Folk Music sent him digging into dusty record collectors’ vast archives in search of undiscovered treasures.

 

“I guess it goes back to 8th or 9th grade,” he recalls warmly, “when I started to realize that this great indie rock my peer group was into was largely coming from certain record labels. Each label had its own sound and recruited certain artists that shared that aesthetic, and there were certain labels I started to trust so much that I’d buy everything they put out.”

 

Ledbetter, who grew up in a small Georgia town about 20 minutes outside Chattanooga, name-checks seminal indies such as SST, Dischord, Touch & Go, Homestead, Matador and Merge, remembering long pre-Internet afternoons spent at local record stores, scouring the bins and talking to knowledgeable clerks in an attempt to stay on top of the latest releases. But his first experience in the music industry came years later when he moved to Atlanta, where he ended up working as a DJ at Georgia State University’s student-run radio station, WRAS (a.k.a. Album 88), and interning at an indie label called Table The Elements.

 

“At that point I’d become exposed to music magazines and heard the buzz about the Smithsonian Folkways reissue of Harry Smith’s American Anthology of Folk Music on CD. It sounded very intriguing, and I got a copy through a friend of mine at WREK who got a bunch of them at the DJ rate. I took it back to my apartment, read the accompanying book and listened to it all night. It was one of those life-changing moments,” he admits, “because I never knew much about that era of music. That anthology just opened this huge door for me.”

 

Ledbetter’s newfound passion for this raw, rootsy sound made him fast friends with fellow DJ Brian Montero, host of WRAS’ Sunday morning show, 20th Century Archives. Initially united by their mutual love of John Fahey, Montero eventually invited Ledbetter to sit in on his show, which exposed him to a whole new world of old time music and convinced him to start expanding his library of music.

 

“[Brian] eventually decided to leave the station and was looking for somebody to take over the show, so I asked him if I could take a crack at it. I started going to record stores and trying to expand the show, basically learning about music in front of everyone. I had an easy time finding country, blues and jazz reissues from that area, but had a hard time tracking down gospel,” which he says sparked the initial fire of inspiration that eventually led to the creation of Dust To Digital.

 

“I was listening to all of this gospel music for my radio show,” he continues, “and I realized it was something that not a lot of people had access to. I wanted to share this music with people, and I spent four and a half years trying to figure out how to go about doing that. I found so much great material that the idea ended up going from a single CD to a 6-CD boxed set, but I had the idea for this gospel release long before I had the idea for a record label.”

 

His research for the project that would eventually come to be known as Goodbye, Babylon soon led Ledbetter to a Maryland-based record collector named Joe Bussard, who began sending him cassette recordings of his remarkably expansive 78rpm record library. It took Ledbetter 18 months to make his way through the massive gospel music collection, listening to two cassettes per week and intently scrutinizing the music and lyrics of each song with a well-honed critical ear. If the Harry Smith anthology had captured his curiosity, it was Bussard’s collection that quickly converted him into a true believer.

 

“One thing that jumped out for me was the passion that people sang with back then,” Ledbetter says, his laid-back Southern drawl suddenly rising with intensity. “They were singing for their souls, singing about sin and the rudiments of Christian religion, and I think the results were a lot more compelling and engaging than the music you hear on gospel radio stations today. The music people were making 80 years ago was much more salt-of-the-earth, dealing with everyday problems with a lot more feeling. And of course historically there was a lot more going on back then in America, such the Great Depression. Nowadays it’s very easy to have a convenient lifestyle, so people don’t seem to sing about the problems of their daily lives as much anymore.”

 

It took Ledbetter more than four years to assemble the Goodbye, Babylon collection, whittling down a batch of over 300 songs to 160 spread over six CDs. He also single-handedly oversaw virtually every step of the production process, from sequencing the tracks to hand-packing the Georgia cotton that came in each boxed set.

 

“I had to figure out everything from how to set up a business, to how to license the material, to learning how to do graphic design for the boxed set and lay out a 200-page book, to getting the records mastered,” he recalls with an air of amazement, almost as if realizing the sheer scope of the project for the first time. “It was a huge ordeal and took so much time, but I just kept at it. I had a day job working on computers for the first three years before I got laid off, then I worked 80 hours a week doing Goodbye, Babylon for the last year and a half.”

 

Clearly the results paid off exponentially, as Goodbye, Babylon earned universal critical acclaim, rave reviews from music legends like Bob Dylan and Neil Young, and Grammy nominations for Best Historical Album and Best Boxed Set. Ledbetter admits that his pet project’s ultimate success was beyond his wildest dreams.

 

“I could not have been more surprised! Nobody knew who we were,” he admits, ‘so I was thinking we’d make 1000 of them, sit on ‘em for two to three years, and maybe somewhere down the road it might get someone’s attention. I figured I’d have to get another day job and we’d get back to our daily lives. But we were extremely fortunate that a lot of people fell in love with it, got the message we were trying to convey and really enjoyed the music.”

 

In a rapidly evolving marketplace hungry for authentic roots music, Goodbye, Babylon came down like manna from heaven, selling thousands of units at over $100 a pop. Subsequent critically acclaimed releases such as a Fonotone Records boxed set, I Belong to This Band (the soundtrack to Awake, My Soul: The Story of the Sacred Harp) and two 4-CD volumes of The Art of Field Recording have proven equally impressive, establishing Dust To Digital as the sort of prestigious record label Ledbetter might have sworn allegiance to in his youth. With the gospel collection Take Me To The Water recently earning the label yet another Grammy nomination for Best Historical album, I ask Ledbetter if there might be a Goodbye, Babylon sequel on the horizon.

 

“Oh yeah, I think about it a lot,” he says emphatically. “We’re really fortunate because Goodbye, Babylon came out five years ago, and in that time we’ve had people like Art Rosenbaum and Dick Spotteswood come into our lives. These guys are highly intelligent and have great taste in music, and they’ve been bringing some great projects to us. Dust To Digital has now become a sort of collaborative effort, and in a year of time we can accomplish a great deal. Next year we’re doing a boxed set of Georgia music, and that’ll be more like Goodbye, Babylon is the sense that it’ll be more the product of my personal effort. I look forward to that, and then maybe down the road we’ll revisit gospel music.”

 

In the meantime, Ledbetter believes that his homegrown company is on the right path business-wise, and seems content to maintain Dust To Digital’s impressive legacy via slow, steady growth. “Really the goal is just to keep creating these cultural artifacts and maintaining our aesthetic of bridging the gap between the modern day of 2010 with the old days of 1928 with releases that marry the two. There really isn’t a grand scheme for what we need to accomplish,” he insists, “because I think we’re already doing it. I think we just need to keep at it and keep moving forward.” –BRET LOVE


(originally appeared in Georgia Music Magazine)

Monday, January 25, 2010

THE ART OF CUISINE- Painted Table Cafe












Painted Table Café

465 Boulevard SE

404.622.4353

www.paintedtablecafe.com

The first thing you should know about Grant Park’s Painted Table Café is that there are, in fact, NO painted tables. Instead, the name is indicative of owner Omega Angell’s love of the arts, both visual and culinary.

 

The dining room’s walls are lined with locally produced artwork (five pieces sold in the first week after opening in early November), every restaurant employee is an artist of some sort, and the cafe’s motto is “Let our palette paint your palate with flavor.” Angell even signs every plate he sends out, skillfully dripping the Greek symbol for Omega in various sauces. It’s a classy twist on the diner concept, with the warm orange walls, vibrantly colored paintings, hand-made light fixtures above the bar and sultry Rat Pack-era jazz on the stereo creating a surprisingly sophisticated mood for a place that serves breakfast all day.

 

Angell, who grew up working in his parents’ restaurant and hung out with punk-rock legends Rancid before attending the Culinary Institute of America, has a decidedly unique, anti-corporate stance on the way restaurants should be run. Nearly 80% of his vegetables are locally grown, and Angell will gladly sing the praises of the Georgia farmers he’s proud to work with. All of his Painted Hills beef is hormone-free, free range and grass-fed, as are the Springer Mountain chicken and eggs. And Angell seems truly passionate about his community, speaking fondly of nearby competitors Stone Soup Kitchen and Solstice Café.

 

If the chef seems unconcerned about the competition, it’s because his knack for high class/low-cost cuisine more than speaks for itself. His menu offers distinctive twists on traditional favorites, concocting comfort food with creative flair. A simple dish like Crunchin’ French Toast is rendered more complex via Angell’s batter-coated, frosted flake-flecked crust, which is then topped with Georgia peaches and a vanilla-orange anglaise. Angell’s burgers and sandwiches are equally impressive, from the remarkably spicy Blackened Tuna Burger (with cucumber, avocado and wasabi aioli) to the hearty Hot Roast Beef Sandwich, an open-faced smorgasbord of grilled Texas toast, garlic mashed potatoes, succulent beef and rich brown gravy guaranteed to warm you up on a cold winter’s day.

 

But for the best evidence of Angell’s unfussy culinary brilliance, look no further than the first item on his menu: Shrimp & Grits. The dish has become a must-have for Southern-style restaurants, but his version excels thanks to slow-cooked stone-ground cheese grits, a half-pound of jumbo tiger shrimp, fire-roasted red bell peppers, mushrooms, pancetta, caramelized onion and a spicy red gravy whose secret ingredients include Angell’s own coffee blend (which he’ll soon sell at Painted Table).

 

Most new restaurants take some time to find their footing, but this one is off to a strong start thanks to the hands-on owner/chef’s distinctive vision and 30+ years of experience. His former employers at the Flying Biscuit (which is now owned by Raving Brands) are making a good run at being the biggest all-day breakfast spot in town, but Angell is clearly angling to be the best. –BRET LOVE


(originally appeared in Jezebel)

 

 

 

 

 

Sunday, January 24, 2010

TOP TAPAS- Salt Factory










SALT FACTORY

952 Canton St, Roswell

770.998.4850

redsaltpub.com

 

Words cannot describe how disappointed we were to find out our favorite tapas bar, Little Alley, had recently closed down. Fortunately, owners Hicham Azhari and Fikret Kovac made it up to us by opening this little OTP gem, which was formerly known as Red Salt.

 

Set in the heart of Historic Roswell on the same foodie-friendly street as Indigo, Pastis and Rice, Salt Factory comes across like a swanky gastropub/wine bar offering comfort food with decidedly international influences. Brick walls and hardwood floors and tables give it warmth, while moody lighting and music give it the hip vibe of an intown hotspot (appropriate, since the night we visited the sidewalk was lined with people waiting to get in at 6pm).

 

We were delighted to see a few faves held over from the Little Alley menu, including Thai-Style Braised Beef Short Ribs and Keftegie, a North African veggie dip made from potatoes, pumpkin and chile sauce. We managed to find a few new favorites too, including Seared Ahi Tuna with roasted butternut squash and portobella mushrooms, and London Broil served with cheddar mashed potatoes and crispy onions. We were also excited to learn that Azhari and Kovac are opening a new restaurant (INC Street Food) just a few doors down soon, and can’t wait to see what they dream up next. –BRET LOVE


(Originally appeared in Jezebel)

THE GOSPEL TRUTH- Two killer compilations








VARIOUS ARTISTS- Take Me To The Water: Immersion Baptism In Vintage Music & Photography 1890-1950 (Dust-To-Digital)  &  VARIOUS ARTISTS-Fire In My Bones: Raw, Rare + Otherworldly African-American Gospel [1944-2007]  (Tomkins Square)

 

Growing up in Atlanta as a child of the ‘60s and ‘70s, it seemed like the soul of gospel permeated the culture of the South. Even as a white kid growing up in a mixed-race neighborhood in Dekalb County, it seemed like gospel music was everywhere, from the Sacred Harp singing at my grandmother’s church and the Holy Rollers whose services would frequently spill out onto the sidewalks next to my neighborhood’s grocery store to the massive immersion baptisms we’d stumble onto at Stone Mountain’s lake and the church services that dominated local TV stations every Sunday morning.

 

The sage Joni Mitchell (or was it Cinderella?) once sang “you don’t know what you’ve got ‘til it’s gone,” and as the South’s cultural paradise was paved over with parking lots and high rises, gospel music on the whole became a slicker and more polished beast. But these two excellent compilations– one from Atlanta’s premiere boutique label, Dust-To-Digital, the other benefiting the New Orleans Musician Relief Fund– pay tribute to the raw, traditional gospel that permeated the fabric of my childhood, accurately summarizing the music form’s past century of evolution in the process.

 

You can read elsewhere in this issue about Dust-To-Digital’s impeccable reputation, and Take Me To the Water is yet another in the local label’s uninterrupted stream of exceptional releases. Already nominated for a Grammy Award in the Best Historical Release category, the exquisite package offers 25 tracks of gospel music recorded between 1924 and 1940 as well as a gorgeous book featuring vintage photos and informative essays.

 

Opening with “Baptize Me,” featuring Atlanta’s Rev. J.M. Gates backed by his congregation, Take Me To The Water captures the unbridled passion and power of songs sung purely in the spirit of praise. There’s a broad representation of the gospel sound here, from the bluesy influences of Washington Phillips’ “Denomination Blues Part I” and the Appalachian country of the Carter Family’s “On My Way To Canaan’s Land” to the barbershop approach of the Southern Wonders Quartet’s “Go Wash In The Beautiful Stream” and the Western sound of Bill Boyd & His Cowboy Ramblers’ “Sister Lucy Lee.” Partnered with the book’s vintage immersion baptism photographs and essays by Jim Linderman and Luc Sante, it’s easy to see why the set is up for a Grammy.

 

Equally impressive both in scope and style (with Art Direction by Atlanta’s Susan Archie, a frequent DTD collaborator), Tomkins Square’s Fire In My Bones is a 3-CD set designed to collect some of the more neglected sounds of black gospel music recorded between the genre’s post-WWII heyday and the present. Produced by Mike McGonigal, the compilation veers among various gospel traditions, from solo performances to congregational recordings to hellfire-and-brimstone sermons that will make the hairs on the back of your neck stand up. It also veers from major label tracks to field recordings and from rural Georgia to urban California, showcasing the sheer diversity of the gospel sound.

 

From The Phillips’ Specials’ furiously funky “I’m A Soldier” and Precious Bryant’s folk-blues take on “When the Saints Go Marching In” to the Georgia Fife & Drum Band’s bizarrely militaristic “Why Sorrow Done Passed Me Around” and Grant & Ella’s version of the slave-era spiritual “John Saw,” the Peach State is well represented among the 80 awesome tracks collected here. But if there’s one central message that both of these killer compilations convey, it’s that it ain’t about where you’re from so much as it is where you’re going after you’re gone. – BRET LOVE


(Originally appeared in Georgia Music Magazine)

Saturday, January 23, 2010

TAKIN' IT TO THE STREETS- Tuk Tuk Thai Food Loft


(photo by Melissa Libby)





Tuk Tuk Thai Food Loft

1745 Peachtree Rd, Suite Y

678.539.6181

www.tuktukatl.com

 

Street food– that is, food available from street-side vendors using makeshift or portable stalls or carts– is universal, from South Africa’s bunny chow and North Indian Chaat to Middle Eastern shawarma and good ol’ American hot dogs.  The concept stretches back thousands of years, but the trend of selling what is traditionally considered street food in upscale restaurants is a relatively recent development.

 

Tuk Tuk Thai Food Loft, the latest offering from the family behind Tamarind and Nan Thai fame, is a perfect example of this dichotomy at work, offering moderately priced food in one of Midtown’s most spectacular settings (formerly occupied by Taurus).  There’s an authentic tuk tuk– the 3-wheeled auto rickshaw popular in Asia– to greet you in the downstairs lobby; an exquisite elevator lined with Thai script; a dining room decorated with cookie tins, exotic artwork, and cushioned chairs modeled after those used by Thai royalty; and a bamboo-lined balcony affording amazing views of the ATL skyline.

 

The idea, according to General Manager Thaddeus Keefe is to, “create a casual atmosphere where people can come in after a long day and just hang out, have a few drinks, have some good food and not feel so formal.”  Keefe and his Executive Chef fiancée Dee Dee (daughter of Nan/Tamarind owners Charlie and Nantha Niyomkul) have managed to do just that.  Between the warm décor, romantic candlelight, hip-but-mellow music, and their signature Lychee Martini (vodka, sake, sparkling rose and lychee juice), we felt the edge of the workday melting away before our first dish had even been delivered to the table.

 

The menu maintains this low-key approach, focusing on small plates of finger foods with an average price of $9.  “We wanted to introduce the people in Atlanta to real, traditional Bangkok street food,” Dee Dee says, “as a tribute to the things my parents ate when they were growing up in Thailand.”

 

We started with the Moo Yang, deliciously tender grilled pork skewers, which come hung from a swanky steel rack designed (and patented) by Dee Dee.  The Hoy Tod offered an unexpectedly complex combination of textures and flavors, mixing a crunchy pancake with chewy mussels, crisp bean sprouts, scallions, cilantro and a robust sweet chili sauce.  We really loved the Yum Woon Sen, a spicy salad of mixed seafood, minced chicken cellophane noodles, lime, onion and palm sugar.  But our favorite was the Neau Sawan, a Thai beef jerky that was so remarkably flavorful we could’ve eaten it by the bagful.

 

Though family-style dining is Tuk Tuk’s intent, they offer a handful of larger entrees for those who don’t like to share.  Try the Pla Haw Bai Tong, a whole catfish grilled inside a banana leaf with chili lime sauce; or Kai Yang, a moist half-chicken served with papaya salad and sticky rice.  But you’ll really want to save room for dessert: We’d recommend the Tapioca Pudding, whose intriguing blend of coconut, lotus seed, taro and sweet corn provided the perfect antidote for the spice buzzing our lips and taste buds.

 

We visited Tuk Tuk during December’s soft opening, when they were still “ironing the kinks,” but Keefe and Niyomkul’s colorful concept had clearly already hit the ground running.  It may not be as pricey as the family’s other restaurants, but once word on Tuk Tuk Thai Food Loft gets out we have no doubt it will be just as popular. –Bret Love

(Originally appeared in Jezebel Magazine)