THE ART OF LATIN AMERICA

VISIONS OF THE GODS: THE ART OF THE CARIBBEAN & LATIN AMERICA

By Bret Love

 

Although most modern art aficionados are familiar with legends such as Jean-Michel Basquiat, Santiaga Martinez Delgado and Frida Kahlo, the art of the Caribbean and Latin America has a rich, storied history dating back almost 4000 years. Long before Columbus set sail for the New World and “discovered” lands that had been settled for centuries, cultures such as the Aztec, Inca and Taíno were crafting masterful sculptures, jewelry and architecture that rivaled anything their Greek and Roman counterparts created.

 

 

ART OF THE ANCIENT WORLD

 

Pre-Columbian art thrived in the Caribbean, Central and South America from approximately 1800 BC to 1500 AD. Though there were a broad variety of regional styles, certain traditions recurred throughout, including angular patterns, geometric designs, three-dimensional ceramics, and extraordinary amounts of time and energy spent preparing societal leaders for their journey into the afterlife. Most pre-Columbian cultures viewed reality as multilayered, with numerous deities connected to the forces of nature. Their offerings associated with burying the dead are the source of many of the cultural artifacts found in the region’s museums today.

 

The dominant civilization of Latin America’s pre-classic period (up to 200 AD) was the Olmecs, who launched the Mesoamerican tradition of large ceremonial centers and specialized in jade figurines and colossal sculptured heads that still dot the landscape today. During the Classic period (200-900 AD), the Maya became the most prominent culture, with art focusing primarily on agriculture and fertility that included glyphs, hieroglyphic writing, sculpture and murals, as well as architectural achievements such as the pyramid at Chichén Itzá. By the 12^th century, cultures such as the Toltecs (known for free-standing columns), Mixtecs (murals characterized by geometric designs) and Aztecs (stone sculpture and elaborately decorated skulls) had risen to prominence.

 

Down in South America, the Inca Empire succeeded Andean civilizations such as the Chavín, Moche and Chimú, gradually developing into the largest and wealthiest empire in the world at the time of the Spanish conquest. Though best known for the stunning architecture of world heritage sites such as Peru’s Machu Piccu, the Inca also specialized in intricately designed textiles, ceramics, stonework and especially sculptures made from gold (which was equated with their sun god, Inti). Over in the Caribbean, the islands of the Greater Antilles were dotted with communities of Taíno Indians, whose expressive forms of sculpture, weaving, pottery and jewelry continue to influence local culture today.

 

 

THE INFLUENCE OF COLONIAL IMPERIALISM

 

With the arrival of the Spaniards, the art of Latin America and the Caribbean began to evolve, gradually incorporating European influences into indigenous traditions. The Augustinian, Dominican and Franciscan friars who brought the teachings of Christianity inspired the development of Arte Indocristiano, a form equally influenced by Spanish, Portuguese and French Baroque traditions and the trends of the Italian masters.

 

This cultural exchange between native Indian and European art aesthetics led to dazzling creations that crossed ethnic, political and religious lines. There were paintings of the baby Jesus wearing a gold-stamped robe over Andean sandals; portraits of Inca kings clad in plug earrings, woven armor and a domed helmet that could pass for European; and figurines of the Virgin Mary wearing a cloth dress of Latin American tradition, but with decorative embellishments clearly of Spanish origin.

 

Though history books long held that European culture was vastly superior, time has shown that the New World’s native cultures were equally rich and sophisticated. As more and more countries became independent of their Colonial conquerors, more and more artists began to embrace their native cultures, creating art filled with tension between European modes of expression and indigenous themes. As a result, the art of Latin America and the Caribbean exploded in popularity during the 20^th century, with artists such as Diego Rivera, Wifredo Lam and Roberto Matta becoming some of the world’s most celebrated talents.

 

 

THE MODERN SCENE

 

These days, most countries in the Caribbean and Latin America seem to celebrate all eras of their cultural history with equal appreciation. In Panama, you can check out excellent collections of pre-Columbian art at the Instituto Panameño de Arte, masterworks from the colonial era at the Religious Colonial Art Museum, and contemporary works by native artists such as painters Carlos Francisco Changmarín and Guillermo Trukillo at the Museo de Arte Contemporaneo. Over in Guatemala, Museo Ixchel del Traje Indigena features clothing, textiles, painting and sculptures by the country’s Mayan people, while the ultra-modern Museo Popol Vuh is a natural history museum featuring funerary ceramics and other artifacts spanning the period from 2000 BC through colonial times.

 

In Cartagena, Colombia’s historic walled district you can walk from the Museo de Arte Moderno (which features the fantastical works of modern talents such as Dario Morales) to El Museo del Oro Zenú (which is filled with pre-Columbian pottery, musical instruments, textiles and the intricately filigreed gold jewelry for which the Zenú were known), strolling by an outdoor installation of sculptor Fernando Botero’s Mujer Reclinada ("Reclining Woman") along the way. Lima, Peru’s Larco Museum is world-renowned for its stunning collection of over 45,000 pre-Columbian artifacts, with its sister museum– Museo de Arte Precolumbino– offering a smaller but still impressive collection in the San Blas region of Cusco. For modern art, check out Lima’s Galeria de Arte Moll, which features works by contemporary artists such as Angel Chávez and Fernando de Szyszlo in its permanent collection.

 

The Latin American artistic influence extends out to Caribbean countries such as the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico, which are home to sociopolitically charged woodblock artist Belkis Ramirez and controversial painter Pablo Marcano Garcia, respectively. To view the best art these countries have to offer, visit the DR’s Altos de Chavon Cultural Center and the Museum of Taíno Art (in Puerto Plata), and Puerto Rico’s Ponce Museum of Art, which features over 3,000 pieces spanning the 14^th to 20^th centuries.

 

In other areas of the Caribbean, such as Jamaica and Trinidad & Tobago, the West African traditions passed down through generations of descendants of former slaves are more prevalent in the artwork.  Kingston’s National Gallery of Jamaica showcases important works by local artists such as Mallica "Kapo" Reynolds, Cecil Baugh and Edna Manley, while the 10,000-item collection at Trinidad’s National Museum & Art Gallery includes pieces by celebrated painter Michel-Jean Cazabon.

 

Other islands, such as the Bahamas (Great Britain), Grand Cayman (Great Britain), St. Maarten/St. Martin (Netherlands/France) and the U.S. Virgin Islands, maintain closer cultural ties to their colonizing countries, as the Bahamas is the only one to have gained independence. The National Art Gallery of the Bahamas, National Gallery of the Cayman Islands, St. Maarten’s Gingerbread Gallerie and St. Thomas’ Mango Tango Art Gallery feature some of the best works these countries have to offer.

 

Truth is, no matter where your travels may take you in the Caribbean, Central or South America, you’ll find that art and creativity continue to thrive vibrantly, as native, European and African influences blend together to break down the cultural walls that divide us as human beings. Art has grown and evolved significantly over the past 4000 years, and it is only through looking back and understanding the medium’s past that we can fully appreciate how far it has come.

 

(originally appeared in Spirit Airlines' Skylights)

FORMOSA BETRAYED- Movie Review

FORMOSA BETRAYED- There’s a kernel of a great idea that lies buried somewhere beneath the flaws of this tepid political thriller. Unfortunately, first-time director Adam Kane never quite manages to build up enough dynamic heat to make the damn thing pop. There are, however, some intriguing back-stories involved, both on- and off-screen. 

Writer/producer/co-star Will Tiao (a Fulbright scholar who went into international politics before embarking upon a career in entertainment) independently raised millions of dollars from private investors to get the movie made– many of them from Atlanta– and the work was clearly a labor of love. Inspired by actual events, the story follows FBI agent Jake Kelly’s (James Van Der Beek) investigation of the murder of a Taiwanese-American professor on U.S. soil. When the killers flee to the Asian island of Taiwan– which was formerly known as Formosa– Kelly follows, only to become embroiled in a muddled mystery that ultimately involves the U.S. State Department, the Chinese Mafia, the Taiwanese government, Chiang Kai-shek and martial law. 

It’s clear that Tiao, who is of Taiwanese descent, is passionate about criticizing the United States government’s failure to recognize Taiwan as a sovereign nation, independent of mainland China. Sadly, it takes nearly an hour of unveiling the increasingly convoluted plot before he (in the role of a political activist) reveals his history lesson, which proves infinitely more interesting than anything in the previous 60 minutes. 

It’s easy to imagine a talented auteur such as Paul Greengrass turning this tale into a taut, politically charged thriller. But as it is, the stilted pacing, pedestrian dialogue and occasionally amateurish acting make the film something of a choring bore to watch. But hey, at least it answers the question, "What the heck happened to James Van Der Beek after Dawson's Creek?" (C-) –Bret Love

Change your life!

Back in 2003, when I was going through my divorce after a 15-year relationship and scared as hell of what single life would bring, I got an idea that has inexorably changed my life for the better: I decided to take an improv class. 

At first it was just a way to get out of the house, get out of my head, and meet some new people. At first I wasn't very good: I'd stumble for the right words, get all wrapped up in what I wanted the scene to be, get frustrated when something didn't work, and kicked myself afterwards for all the mistakes I made. After two classes (all Dad's Garage offered back then) I figured I was done, but I eventually found my way back to it, had a breakthrough and got much, much better. Good enough to be invited to join the casts at Dad's Garage, the Basement Theatre, Cineprov, and my current home, JaCKPie.

But this isn't a story about my relative successes as an improviser. It's about how improv changed my life. You see, from the time we're little kids, we're taught to judge ourselves and, by extension, everyone around us. We're taught to reflect on the past and plan for the future, often at the expense of our ability to enjoy the present. We're taught to color inside the lines, keeps our arms and legs inside the moving car at all times, and keep our deepest feelings to ourselves. Worst of all, we're taught that "grown-ups" should be serious-minded, and that there's clearly something wrong with anyone willing to act a fool and embarrass themselves in public.

To become a good improviser, I had to un-learn an awful lot of stuff that had been programmed into my brain since I was a small child. I learned how not to judge myself or others, because "whatever happens is what was MEANT to happen," allowing us to learn from our "mistakes." I learned to stop trying to manipulate every single thing to be the way I wanted it to be– to let things happen organically and respond in the moment, without any agenda. I learned that letting it all out allows other people to let themselves in, establishing deeper bonds of connections between us as human beings. I learned how to support others while at the same time taking better care of myself. And most importantly, I learned how to play with the unfettered abandon of a child, completely un-self-conscious in my own skin.

I learned a lot of these things from my classes with Jim Karwisch, JaCKPie's founder, teacher and mentor. Over six years into my improv training, I'm still learning valuable lessons on improv every week, and finding a million ways that knowledge impacts me in my day-to-day life. If you've ever struggled to make friends, struggled to find your own path, struggled with public speaking, or just wondered how improvisers do what they do, I urge you to check out JaCKPie's improv classes, which begin next Monday night at 7pm. It will change your life, and you'll forever be glad you did. Register today at http://jackpie.com.

OCEANS- Movie Review

OCEANS- Long before The Cove or March Of The Penguins, Disney’s “True-Life Adventures” series presented stunning visions of the wonder and fragility of nature that encouraged audiences to embrace and preserve the world’s natural beauty. Produced between 1948 and 1960, that award-winning series was clearly the inspiration behind Disneynature, the independent Mouse House production arm responsible for last year’s excellent eco-themed documentary, Earth. 

The imprint’s second film, which was co-directed by Jacques Perrin and Jacques Cluzaud (Winged Migration), takes a similar approach, balancing jaw-dropping visuals with sober musings on the underwater world’s future. “Wow!” is the operative word here, perfect for responding to everything from otherworldly pods of glowing jellyfish and beach-bound orcas gobbling seals for supper to massive schools of leaping dolphins and epic stone crab battles that look like lost scenes from The Lord Of The Rings. 

Keeping it’s core kiddie audience in mind, the film is careful not to get too heavy-handed with its lecturing on the importance of saving our oceans from the threats of pollution, over-fishing and global warming. But at times you may find yourself wishing Pierce Brosnan’s narration had a bit more consciousness-raising substance to match Perrin and Cluzaud’s remarkable visual style. 

Still, there are enough moments of wide-eyed wonder here to dazzle audiences of all ages, making up for a lack of storytelling with some of the most exquisite undersea images ever filmed. It may not win any Oscars, but Oceans would almost certainly make the legendary Jacques Costeau proud. (B) –Bret Love

CARTAGENA, COLOMBIA- The *Real* Emerald City

THE REAL EMERALD CITY- CARTAGENA, COLOMBIA EMERGES AS ONE OF SOUTH AMERICA’S GREATEST UNDISCOVERED GEMS

By Bret Love

 

“There are three things we are known for,” explains our gregarious Colombian guide/translator, Jose Villa Rodriguez, during lunch as he holds up three fingers in front of his knowing smile. “Emeralds, coffee and beautiful women!” I don’t know much about the dazzling green gems patiently polished into stunning earrings, rings and necklaces in the quietly buzzing workroom at Joyeria Caribe—the city of Cartagena’s most esteemed jewelry manufacturers­– but I can certainly attest to the world-class quality of the latter two features.

 

My buddy DeMarco and I flew into Cartagena, knowing precious little about the city aside from what we could find on Wikipedia. The reasons for this seem to be twofold: For one, the Internet has not yet developed into quite the phenomenon in South America that it is in the United States and, perhaps consequently, American travelers have not yet discovered what an amazing city this historic portal to the South American continent truly is.

 

Properly known as Cartagena des Indias (to distinguish it from the Spanish city after which it was named), this bustling seaport on Colombia’s northern coast was founded in 1533 by Pedro de Heredia and quickly emerged as a major hub of commerce and transportation in the early Spanish settlement of the Americas. After legendary pirates such as Martín Cote and Francis Drake began to plunder the prosperous city, in the early 17^th century the Spanish crown approved the construction of numerous fortresses and approximately 11km of walls surrounding Cartagena. Beginning in 1606, the construction took over 200 years, and the impressive results were named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984 and remain among Cartagena’s most impressive sights.

 

But the truth is, the entire city is practically bursting with history, as we realized almost immediately after our arrival at La Passion, a stunning new boutique bed and breakfast set in a 19^th century Spanish mansion. Located in the heart of the Walled City just a few blocks from the Caribbean Sea, La Passion’s password-protected doors, intimacy (there are less than 10 guest rooms) and amenities such as breakfast served beside the gorgeous rooftop pool made it the perfect headquarters for our explorations, with almost every historically significant landmark within walking distance.

 

Which proved to be a good thing, as the narrow streets are often too congested for even the tiny local taxis to proceed at more than a snail’s pace. As we strolled along, vendors hawking everything from jewelry and artwork to T-shirts and sunglasses, street mimes looking to make a quick buck, fruit and vegetable carts, students hanging out between classes at the local university and the aforementioned beautiful women all vied for our attention, as strains of cumbia, champeta and salsa music streamed from the surrounding shops. But it’s the gorgeous republican, Italian and colonial-style architecture of the Old City’s buildings that truly make it a wonder to behold.

 

From simple homes to grand cathedrals, virtually every building in the area is worthy of a picture postcard.  There’s Teatro Heredia (Heredia Theater), a majestic edifice whose posh interior hosts a variety of concerts and cultural events; Puerta del Reloj (Clock Gate), the official entrance to the downtown Cartagena area, which opens out onto the bustling marketplace of Plaza de los Coches (Square of the Carriages); San Pedro Claver Church, where a priest conducts evening mass while young children feed vast flocks of pigeons in the sculpture-filled square outside; Plaza de Bolivar, where horse-drawn carriages line up in front of a 16^th century cathedral; the restored Santa Domingo Church, whose plaza features the sculpture Mujer Reclinada ("Reclining Woman"), a gift from renowned Colombian artist Fernando Botero; and too many others to mention.

 

Needless to say, by the time we made our way to El Santísimo, a nuevo-Caribbean restaurant featuring innovative cuisine served up in a tropical courtyard lined with folk art, Colombia’s intense heat and humidity had combined with a long day of travel and walking to render us completely exhausted. After hungrily scarfing down a scrumptious dinner of salad, fresh seafood and coconut rice (both of which are local specialties), we were too exhausted to even consider exploring Cartagena’s notoriously bustling nightlife scene, so we headed back to La Passion to sleep like the dead.

 

The next morning we were up at dawn for another long day of activities, starting off with a tour of San Felipe de Barajas castle, which was named for King Philip IV. A major trading port for precious metals and slaves, Cartagena was seen as a prize jewel in the Spanish crown, and as we explored the fort Jose recounted grand tales of the illustrious Battle of Cartagena, in which the Spaniards used the sentry boxes, underground tunnels and massive cannons to repel attacks by more than 23,000 British troops.

 

From there it was off to the Inquisition Palace, which has been turned into a museum featuring all of the original features it had when it was built in 1770. From a stretching rack and stockade to a guillotine and hanging platform, the museum is a haunting reminder of the Spanish Inquisition’s fearsome presence in the region from 1610 up until Cartagena’s independence in 1811.

 

Just down the street lies El Museo del Oro Zenú (Zenú Gold Museum), which charts the pre-Colombian history of the region’s original inhabitants, who first settled in Colombia over 11,000 years ago. Filled with pottery, musical instruments, textiles and the intricately filigreed gold jewelry for which the Zenú were known, the museum also pays tribute to their remarkably innovative agricultural developments, which included ingenious waterway systems designed to control drainage and irrigation. And don’t miss the excellent museum shop next door, Galeria Cano, where collectors can find upscale Colombian art created by local craftsmen.

 

After another delicious lunch during which we guzzled down glasses of chorozo (which tastes like a sweet cranberry) and pineapple juice, we headed up to visit Convento de la Popa, a 400-year-old monastery sitting on a hill 500 feet over Cartagena. Locals walk up the steep hill every morning, past 14 crosses representing the stations of the passion, for mass in the monastery’s 21k gold-laden chapel. Making our way through the tranquil inner courtyard, we found ourselves in front of a statue of the Virgin of Cadelaria, who is credited with delivering the city from the ravages of disease and pirates. The spectacular 360º views of the city and Cartagena Bay alone make La Popa an absolute must-see.

 

As the sun began to set, we made our way to the Plaza de la Aduana (Customs Square) for a sizzling performance by Mapale troupe Afro Columbia, whose pounding tribal rhythms, infectious melodies, colorful costumes and dazzling African-influenced dance moves attracted a massive crowd unaccustomed to seeing these local cultural treasures playing outside of upscale venues like Teatro Heredia. From there it was on to dinner at Club de Pesca, a seaside restaurant where a sultry latin jazz ensemble, strong drinks, fresh fish and great company (courtesy of Jose and our Contactos guide, Esmerelda Martínez) made for an enjoyable end to our extraordinarily full day.

 

Our last day in Colombia was our favorite, as we left bright and early for a visit to the Rosario Islands. Making a brief stop at Bocachica’s San Fernando Fort, strategically placed at the entrance to the bay, we made our way our to Majagua Island, a beautifully unspoiled tropical paradise located 30 minutes off the coast of Cartagena. The small San Pedro de Majagua hotel (where we swore to stay next time) was practically deserted, with two white sand beaches and plenty of hammocks to provide the feeling you were far from civilization.

 

Our tour included the option of visiting an aquarium, going scuba diving or snorkeling, so we chose the latter option, venturing to an even smaller island, Isla Pavito, with an even smaller resort. Donning masks and flippers, we set out from the rocky beach to find a manmade reef of sunken barrels swarming with tropical fish a mere 20 yards away. Further out, natural coral attracted brilliantly colored parrotfish, puffers and angelfish by the dozens, with water so warm and crystal clear you could see every detail.

 

Later that night we returned to town to view a different sort of wildlife at Mr. Babilla’s Restaurant & Discoteque. Legendary on the local scene, this nightclub was deserted when we arrived for dinner at 9PM, but by the time we’d graduated to drinks it was becoming increasingly packed, and by midnight there were literally people dancing on the tables.

 

There are a lot of misconceptions about Colombia lingering from its days as one of the world’s coca capitals, but Cartagena is a wondrous historical city that deserves all the tourist accolades showered upon European counterparts such as Venice or Prague. The emeralds and the coffee were certainly everything Jose promised, but it’s the people and the culture that make it a true undiscovered gem.

 

CARTAGENA CONTACTS

 

Contactos- Services a wide variety of tourism needs. (575) 665-1300, www.contactos.com.co.

 

Jose Villa Rodriguez- Private tourist guide/translator. (311)438-3458, josevillarodriguez@yahoo.com.

 

Expreso Brasilia- Offers bus tours between Cartagena, Barranquilla and Santa Mara. www.expresobrasilia.com.

 

La Passion- Intimate bed & breakfast in the heart of downtown Cartagena. (575) 664-8605, www.lapassionhotel.com.

 

Sofitel Santa Clara- Gorgeous modern hotel in the former Santa Clara de Asis Convent. (575) 650-4700, www.sofitel.com.

 

Hotel San Pedro de Majagua- Like your own private island paradise. (575) 664-6070, www.hotelmajagua.com.

 

Isla Pavito/Dolphin Dive School- The ultimate remote Colombian getaway. (575) 664-0814, www.dolphindiveschool.com.

(originally appeared in Spirit Airlines' Skylights)

PRODIGAL SONS- Movie Review

PRODIGAL SONS- This thought-provoking documentary is all about identity and choices: Who we choose to be as individuals, how we choose to live our lives, who we choose to love, and how we deal with situations in which it seems we have no choice. Paul McKerrow grew up the golden child of a loving family in small town Montana, the middle of three sons born 3 years apart. Handsome, smart and strong, he graduated as class President and valedictorian, captain of the football team, and the object of every cheerleader’s affection. Twenty years later, Paul is now Kimberly Reed, a transgendered film director returning to her hometown for the first time for a high school reunion. The trip also marks her reunion with adopted older brother Marc, who has had a hard-knock life: held back in preschool, failed to graduate high school, suffered a serious head injury at age 21, and has never gotten over the feeling that he’s been cheated out of the life he deserves. The film pulls a rope-a-dope sucker punch, feigning the audience into believing the drama will come from the community’s lack of acceptance of Kimberly’s transition, when in fact the emotional dynamics largely come from Marc’s mental breakdown. What begins as an almost endearing social awkwardness quickly turns vicious and ugly, as Marc hurls insults at Kimberly and her girlfriend, physically assaults their younger brother (who is gay), and eventually pulls a knife during a holiday celebration. He’s a train wreck of a man desperate to control his own life, but he clearly can’t even control his own emotional impulses despite an obvious love for his family. It’s a fascinating, heartbreaking portrait of familial dysfunction and mental illness, more complex and profoundly revelatory than anything most Hollywood screenwriters could dare to dream up. Sometimes, truth really is stranger—and more intriguing– than fiction. (A)  

Dominican Diary, Pt. 2

 

It was in Puerto Plata that we touched down on Delta Flight 409 for a desperately needed 5-day getaway that would balance a little R&R with a lot of adventure and exploration. We began our stay at the Lifestyle Holiday Vacation Club, the sort of sprawling all-inclusive resort that has become ubiquitous throughout the Caribbean. It was a little too tourist-y for our tastes– we prefer little out-of-the-way slices of tropical paradise– but the resort provided every convenience a gringo could want, and our "VIP" wristbands certainly didn't hurt. 

 

The fourth thing you should know about the Dominican Republic is that its people are as generous as they are gorgeous (which is to say VERY): A simple compliment given to the beaming woman at reception led to her giving Mary a beautiful shell  bracelet, insisting it was her gift to us. A quick lunch and a strong tropical drink later, we were off to VIP beach, where the resort's more upscale clientele enjoyed stunning ocean views, comfy cabana beds, hot tub-sized swimming pools, 30-minute massages and attentive table service. It was all very posh, and after a rough few weeks of work we were content to immerse ourselves in the decadent luxury, winding down the day with a foodie-friendly 4-star dinner at their gourmet VIP restaurant.

 

The fifth thing you should know about the Dominican Republic is the wondrous concoction known as Mamajuana.  A potent blend of dark rum, red wine, honey, and a super-secret variety of roots, herbs and barks, this traditional after-dinner drinks pack one hell of a wallop and is reported to have powerful effects on one's libido (the locals winkingly call it "Dominican Viagra"). We won't delve into the results of that particular experiment, but we will say that the drink proved remarkably addictive, with a sweet taste that fell somewhere in between port wine, cinnamon red hots and that warm mixture of bourbon and honey my parents used to give me when I had a sore throat as a kid. We brought home two huge bottles, plus the ingredients to make many, many more.

 

The next day we were off at 8AM for our first adventure, a tram-ride up to the top of Mount Isabel de Torres, which tends to become obscured by clouds later in the day. A local band playing merengue típico music serenaded us while we waited and, noticing me tapping along to the lively beat, invited me to sit in on drums. I was still giddier than a schoolgirl around her first crush when we reached the top, where we were greeted by a massive Christ the Redeemer statue modeled after the more famous one in Brazil.

 

The sixth thing you should know about the Dominican Republic is that seemingly EVERYONE in the country is hustling to make a buck, and that “no thanks” can be your best friend. An overly-helpful guy at the bottom wanted to charge us $17 each to guide us around the Botanical Gardens at the top of the mountain. “No thanks.” An overly-helpful guy at the top wanted to help us take pictures in front of the statue, then show us his gift shop. “No thanks.” Instead, we explored the 7-acre gardens on our own, going an hour without seeing another human soul. It felt like a different world from Puerto Plata’s congested streets, one filled with brilliant tropical flowers, bright blue bees with deep orange antennae, rare woodpeckers and hawks. It also offers spectacular views of the entire region, from the northern coastline to the sparsely populated lush rolling hills and thick expanses of jungle that make up the country’s interior.

 

By the time we made it down the mountain and made our way back to LHVC, the oppressive heat was already sapping our strength as we explored the resort in more depth. A tour of their VIP World (swanky, but overcrowded) and private villas (gorgeous, but WAY out of most people’s price range) was fun, but it was the discovery of the remote Serenity Beach that immediately captured our attention. Situated far from the hubbub at the resort’s center (where the lively bar, loud music and pool volleyball court seemed to attract a more raucous element than we prefer), Serenity Beach’s pristine shoreline, hammocks, cozy cabanas and complete lack of noise was just what we needed, and we spent the rest of the afternoon drinking Bailey Coladas, snorkeling the shallow reef and snoozing contentedly in the breezy shade.