It was in Puerto Plata that we touched down on Delta Flight 409 for a desperately needed 5-day getaway that would balance a little R&R with a lot of adventure and exploration. We began our stay at the Lifestyle Holiday Vacation Club, the sort of sprawling all-inclusive resort that has become ubiquitous throughout the Caribbean. It was a little too tourist-y for our tastes– we prefer little out-of-the-way slices of tropical paradise– but the resort provided every convenience a gringo could want, and our "VIP" wristbands certainly didn't hurt.
The fourth thing you should know about the Dominican Republic is that its people are as generous as they are gorgeous (which is to say VERY): A simple compliment given to the beaming woman at reception led to her giving Mary a beautiful shell bracelet, insisting it was her gift to us. A quick lunch and a strong tropical drink later, we were off to VIP beach, where the resort's more upscale clientele enjoyed stunning ocean views, comfy cabana beds, hot tub-sized swimming pools, 30-minute massages and attentive table service. It was all very posh, and after a rough few weeks of work we were content to immerse ourselves in the decadent luxury, winding down the day with a foodie-friendly 4-star dinner at their gourmet VIP restaurant.
The fifth thing you should know about the Dominican Republic is the wondrous concoction known as Mamajuana. A potent blend of dark rum, red wine, honey, and a super-secret variety of roots, herbs and barks, this traditional after-dinner drinks pack one hell of a wallop and is reported to have powerful effects on one's libido (the locals winkingly call it "Dominican Viagra"). We won't delve into the results of that particular experiment, but we will say that the drink proved remarkably addictive, with a sweet taste that fell somewhere in between port wine, cinnamon red hots and that warm mixture of bourbon and honey my parents used to give me when I had a sore throat as a kid. We brought home two huge bottles, plus the ingredients to make many, many more.
The next day we were off at 8AM for our first adventure, a tram-ride up to the top of Mount Isabel de Torres, which tends to become obscured by clouds later in the day. A local band playing merengue típico music serenaded us while we waited and, noticing me tapping along to the lively beat, invited me to sit in on drums. I was still giddier than a schoolgirl around her first crush when we reached the top, where we were greeted by a massive Christ the Redeemer statue modeled after the more famous one in Brazil.
The sixth thing you should know about the Dominican Republic is that seemingly EVERYONE in the country is hustling to make a buck, and that “no thanks” can be your best friend. An overly-helpful guy at the bottom wanted to charge us $17 each to guide us around the Botanical Gardens at the top of the mountain. “No thanks.” An overly-helpful guy at the top wanted to help us take pictures in front of the statue, then show us his gift shop. “No thanks.” Instead, we explored the 7-acre gardens on our own, going an hour without seeing another human soul. It felt like a different world from Puerto Plata’s congested streets, one filled with brilliant tropical flowers, bright blue bees with deep orange antennae, rare woodpeckers and hawks. It also offers spectacular views of the entire region, from the northern coastline to the sparsely populated lush rolling hills and thick expanses of jungle that make up the country’s interior.
By the time we made it down the mountain and made our way back to LHVC, the oppressive heat was already sapping our strength as we explored the resort in more depth. A tour of their VIP World (swanky, but overcrowded) and private villas (gorgeous, but WAY out of most people’s price range) was fun, but it was the discovery of the remote Serenity Beach that immediately captured our attention. Situated far from the hubbub at the resort’s center (where the lively bar, loud music and pool volleyball court seemed to attract a more raucous element than we prefer), Serenity Beach’s pristine shoreline, hammocks, cozy cabanas and complete lack of noise was just what we needed, and we spent the rest of the afternoon drinking Bailey Coladas, snorkeling the shallow reef and snoozing contentedly in the breezy shade.
No comments:
Post a Comment